Vienna Bread

Before you start

Vienna bread sits between a lean French loaf and a soft sandwich bread. A little milk, butter and sugar in the dough give it a tender, even crumb and a pale golden color, while a burst of steam at the start of the bake produces a thin, crisp crust that crackles as it cools. It is sliced for sandwiches and toast, and it is easy to shape as one large loaf or two smaller ones.

The defining look is a long, plump oval with several diagonal slashes that open into ridges. A quick cornstarch glaze, brushed on before and right after baking, gives the crust its shine and helps it crackle. Since the dough contains milk and sugar it browns faster than lean bread, so the oven temperature drops after the first steamy minutes.

Ingredients

• Dough500 g (4 cups) bread flour
• 7 g (2¼ tsp) instant yeast
• 15 g (1 tbsp) granulated sugar
• 1½ tsp (9 g) fine salt
• 150 ml (⅔ cup) whole milk — lukewarm
• 160 ml (⅔ cup) water — lukewarm
• 25 g (2 tbsp) unsalted butter — soft
• Glaze1 tsp cornstarch
• 60 ml (¼ cup) water

Method

1. Combine the flour, yeast, sugar and salt in the mixer bowl. Add the milk, water and butter and mix on low until a rough dough forms, then knead on medium-low for 8 to 10 minutes until smooth, elastic and barely tacky.
2. Cover and let rise for 1 to 1¼ hours at room temperature, until doubled.
3. Make the glaze: whisk the cornstarch into the water in a small pan, bring to a simmer and stir for about 30 seconds until clear and slightly thick. Let it cool.
4. Press the dough into a rectangle about 20 by 25 cm (8 by 10 in). Fold the top third down and press, then fold the bottom up and press. Roll it into a tight log, seal the seam, and roll it under your palms into a 30 cm (12 in) oval with tapered ends.
5. Place it seam side down on the lined sheet. Cover and proof for 45 to 60 minutes, until puffy and about 1½ times its size.
6. Put the empty metal pan on the lowest rack and heat the oven to 220°C (425°F). Boil a kettle of water.
7. Brush the loaf with glaze. Cut 5 or 6 diagonal slashes about 1 cm deep across the top. Slide the loaf onto the middle rack, pour 240 ml (1 cup) of boiling water into the hot pan and close the door quickly.
8. Bake for 10 minutes, then remove the water pan, lower the heat to 200°C (400°F) and bake 18 to 22 minutes more, until golden and the center reads about 93°C (200°F).
9. Brush the hot loaf with glaze again and cool on a rack for 1 hour. Listen for the crust crackling as it cools.

Tips for success

• Pour the boiling water carefully, wearing an oven mitt and standing back from the steam.
• Hold the blade at a low angle, almost flat, for the slashes. Angled cuts open into raised ridges rather than splitting straight up.
• For two smaller loaves, divide the dough, shape two 25 cm ovals and bake for 22 to 25 minutes total.

Substitutions

Whole milk

Replace the milk and water with 300 ml water and 20 g milk powder. The result is nearly identical.

Cornstarch glaze

Brush with an egg white beaten with 1 tbsp water for a glossier, darker crust that crackles slightly less.

Bread flour

All-purpose flour gives a softer loaf that spreads a little more; reduce the water by 10 ml and shape tightly.

Variations

Seeded Vienna loaf

Brush with glaze and sprinkle with sesame or poppy seeds before slashing.

Vienna rolls

Divide the dough into 10 pieces, shape into small ovals, slash once and bake for 15 to 18 minutes.

Troubleshooting

Slashes did not open

The loaf overproofed or the cuts were shallow. Bake when the dough springs back slowly, and cut a full 1 cm deep.

Crust is thick and chewy

The steam stayed in too long or the oven was too cool. Remove the water pan after 10 minutes and drop to 200°C only then.

Loaf browned too fast

Milk and sugar brown early. Lower the temperature after the steam phase and lay foil on top if needed.

Storage

Wrap the cooled loaf in a cloth or paper bag and use within 2 days; the crust softens in plastic. Freeze sliced bread for up to 3 months.