Cheddar Cheese Bread

Before you start

This cheese bread is a soft, milk-based sandwich loaf with cubes of sharp cheddar rolled into it, so every slice has melted pockets and the top has a browned cheese crust. It makes outstanding toast and grilled cheese sandwiches. A pinch of mustard powder and cayenne sharpens the cheese flavor without tasting spicy.

The cheese goes in after the first rise, not into the mixer. Kneaded-in cheese breaks down and makes the dough greasy; cubes rolled into a flattened rectangle stay distinct and melt into pockets. Use a sharp, aged cheddar for flavor, and because the cheese browns fast, tent the loaf with foil after 20 minutes and judge doneness by temperature rather than crust color.

Ingredients

• Dough400 g (3⅓ cups) bread flour
• 7 g (2¼ tsp) instant yeast
• 15 g (1 tbsp) granulated sugar
• 1¼ tsp (7 g) fine salt
• ½ tsp mustard powder
• Pinch cayenne pepper
• 250 ml (1 cup + 1 tbsp) whole milk — warmed to about 35°C (95°F)
• 30 g (2 tbsp) unsalted butter — soft
• Cheese150 g (5 oz) sharp cheddar — cut into 1 cm (½ in) cubes
• 50 g (½ cup) sharp cheddar — coarsely grated, for the top

Method

1. Combine the flour, yeast, sugar, salt, mustard powder and cayenne in the mixer bowl. Add the warm milk and soft butter and mix on low until combined.
2. Knead on medium-low for 8 to 10 minutes, until the dough is smooth and springy and passes the windowpane test, stretching thin enough to see light through.
3. Cover and let rise for 1 to 1¼ hours, until doubled. Grease the loaf pan.
4. Turn the dough out and press it into a rectangle about 23 by 30 cm (9 by 12 in). Scatter the cheddar cubes evenly over it, pressing them in lightly.
5. Starting from a short side, roll the dough up tightly, pinching the seam closed. Tuck in the ends and place it seam side down in the pan.
6. Cover and proof for 45 to 60 minutes, until the dome rises about 2 cm (¾ in) above the rim. Heat the oven to 190°C (375°F) during the last 20 minutes.
7. Sprinkle the grated cheddar over the top. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, laying foil loosely over the loaf after 20 minutes. It is done when the center reads 88 to 93°C (190 to 200°F).
8. Cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then run a knife around the edges, turn it out and cool on a rack for at least 50 minutes more before slicing.

Tips for success

• Cut the cheese into cubes, not shreds, for the inside. Shredded cheese melts away into the crumb and leaves the bread greasy rather than pocketed.
• A few cubes may poke out and brown at the sides. That is normal and tastes good; push any loose ones back in before proofing.
• Loosen any cheese stuck to the pan with a thin spatula while the loaf is still warm.

Substitutions

Sharp cheddar

Gruyère, aged Gouda or pepper Jack all work. Use a firm, aged cheese; soft cheeses melt into wet patches.

Bread flour

All-purpose flour gives a softer, slightly shorter loaf; reduce the milk by 10 ml.

Whole milk

Use water with 2 tbsp milk powder for a similar crumb, or all water for a leaner, chewier loaf.

Variations

Jalapeño cheddar bread

Scatter 2 seeded, finely chopped jalapeños over the dough with the cheese cubes.

Cheddar and chive

Add 3 tbsp chopped fresh chives to the dough in the last minute of kneading.

Troubleshooting

Large gap under the top crust

The dough was rolled loosely or overproofed. Roll it tightly, pinch the seam and bake once the dome is 2 cm above the rim.

Greasy, dense streaks inside

The cheese was shredded or kneaded in. Add it as cubes after the first rise.

Top too dark, middle gummy

The foil went on too late or the loaf came out early. Tent after 20 minutes and bake to at least 88°C in the center.

Storage

Keep the cooled loaf wrapped at room temperature for up to 3 days. Freeze sliced bread in a sealed bag for up to 3 months and toast slices straight from frozen.