Adjarian Khachapuri (Georgian Cheese Boats)

Before you start

Adjaruli khachapuri comes from Adjara on Georgia's Black Sea coast. A soft yeast dough is shaped into an open boat, filled with brined cheese and baked hot until the rim puffs and browns. Right before serving, an egg yolk and a pat of butter go into the center; at the table you stir them into the cheese and tear off pieces of crust to dip.

In Georgia the filling is usually imeruli and sulguni, mild, slightly sour cheeses that melt smoothly. Outside Georgia a mix of low-moisture mozzarella for stretch and feta for tang is a reliable stand-in. The shaping matters more than it looks: roll the edges tightly and pinch the ends hard, or the boats unroll in the oven and the cheese runs onto the pan. Add the yolk in the last few minutes so it warms through but stays loose, or bake it longer if you prefer it set.

Ingredients

• Dough375 g (3 cups) all-purpose flour
• 7 g (2¼ tsp) instant yeast
• 1 tsp granulated sugar
• 1 tsp (6 g) fine salt
• 240 ml (1 cup) whole milk — warmed to about 35°C (95°F)
• 2 tbsp (25 g) sunflower or olive oil
• Filling225 g (2¼ cups shredded) low-moisture mozzarella
• 225 g (1½ cups crumbled) feta — drained and patted dry
• 1 large egg — beaten; half goes into the cheese, half is for brushing
• 2–3 tbsp milk or water — only if the cheese mix is dry
• Finish4 large egg yolks — for the centers
• 40 g (3 tbsp) unsalted butter — cut into 4 pats

Method

1. Mix the flour, yeast, sugar and salt in a large bowl. Add the warm milk and oil and stir until a soft dough forms. Knead on a lightly floured counter for 8 minutes, until smooth and supple.
2. Place in an oiled bowl, cover and let rise at warm room temperature for about 75 minutes, until doubled.
3. Combine the mozzarella and feta in a bowl with half the beaten egg. Add a spoonful of milk if the mixture feels crumbly; it should hold together when squeezed. Heat the oven to 230°C (450°F) with racks in the upper and lower thirds.
4. Divide the dough into 4 pieces of about 160 g. Roll each into an oval about 25 by 18 cm (10 by 7 in) and 4 mm thick.
5. Roll the two long sides tightly toward the center, leaving a gap of about 7 cm (3 in) in the middle. Pinch and twist each end into a point so the rolls cannot open, giving the shape of a boat.
6. Move two boats onto each sheet. Gently stretch the middle open again if it has closed, then pack a quarter of the cheese into each hollow. Brush the rims with the remaining beaten egg. Rest for 15 minutes.
7. Bake for 12 to 14 minutes, swapping the sheets halfway, until the crust is deep golden and the cheese bubbles at the edges.
8. Make a hollow in each center with a spoon and slip in an egg yolk. Return to the oven for 2 to 3 minutes for a warm, runny yolk, or 5 to 6 minutes until set.
9. Top each boat with a pat of butter and serve at once. Stir the yolk and butter into the cheese and dip pieces of torn crust into it.

Tips for success

• Dry the feta well. Wet cheese turns the dough soggy and makes the filling watery instead of creamy.
• If the ends unroll in the oven, twist them tighter and pinch with a little water next time; dry flour stops the seams from sealing.
• A baking steel or stone heated with the oven gives a crisper base. Slide the boats on with their parchment.

Substitutions

Mozzarella and feta

Sulguni and imeruli, if you can find them, give the authentic mild, tangy flavor. Brined Mexican queso fresco with mozzarella also works, though it tastes milder.

Whole milk

Use half water and half plain yogurt for a softer, tangier dough, as many Georgian bakers do.

Raw egg yolk

Crack in a whole egg and bake for 6 to 8 minutes until the white is set, or skip the egg and add more butter.

Variations

Herb khachapuri

Mix 2 tbsp chopped dill and 1 tbsp chopped cilantro into the cheese.

Spinach and cheese boats

Add 100 g wilted, squeezed-dry spinach to the cheese mixture and reduce each portion slightly.

Troubleshooting

Cheese leaked onto the pan

The ends were not sealed or the walls were too thin. Roll the sides tighter, twist the points and pinch them with a dab of water.

Pale, soft crust

The oven was not hot enough or the boats sat too low. Fully preheat to 230°C, bake on a hot sheet, and give them the full time before adding the yolk.

Filling turned greasy and separated

The cheese baked too long or the blend was mostly oily cheese. Use the half-and-half mix and add the yolk as soon as the edges bubble.

Storage

Khachapuri is best eaten straight from the oven. Refrigerate leftovers within 2 hours and use within 3 to 4 days; reheat at 180°C (350°F) until hot in the center. A runny yolk will not stay runny after reheating.

Safety notes

A yolk left runny is undercooked. For young children, pregnant people, older adults or anyone with a weakened immune system, use pasteurized eggs or bake until the yolk is fully set. Contains wheat, milk and egg.