Cuban Bread

Before you start

Pan cubano is a long, light loaf with a very thin, crisp crust and a soft, fine-grained interior. A small amount of lard is the defining ingredient. It tenderizes the crumb and gives the crust its delicate shatter, which is exactly what you want for a Cuban sandwich pressed flat on a hot griddle. Traditional bakeries lay a moistened palmetto leaf along the top of each loaf, which makes it split into a single, distinct seam as it bakes.

At home, a strip of damp kitchen twine or a long, shallow slash does the same job. The other key choice is steam: a pan of hot water in the oven keeps the surface moist early on so the crust stays thin. Bake until just golden, not deep brown, since the bread will be toasted again when you press sandwiches.

Ingredients

• 500 g (4 cups) bread flour
• 300 g (1¼ cups) warm water — about 38°C (100°F)
• 7 g (2¼ tsp) instant yeast
• 12 g (1 tbsp) granulated sugar
• 10 g (1¾ tsp) fine salt
• 30 g (2 tbsp) lard — softened
• 1 tbsp cornmeal — for the pan
• 2 pieces (about 38 cm / 15 in) cotton kitchen twine — soaked in water, optional

Method

1. Combine the flour, yeast, sugar and salt in the mixer bowl. Add the warm water and lard and knead on medium-low for 7 to 9 minutes, until the dough is smooth, supple and only slightly tacky.
2. Cover and let rise for about 1 hour, until doubled.
3. Divide the dough in half. Pat each piece into a 15 x 30 cm (6 x 12 in) rectangle, then roll it up tightly from a long side, pinching the seam closed. Roll each log to about 38 cm (15 in) with blunt ends.
4. Place the loaves seam-side down on a parchment-lined baking sheet dusted with cornmeal, about 10 cm (4 in) apart. Lay a strip of damp twine lengthwise down the center of each loaf, or plan to slash them later.
5. Cover loosely and proof for 40 to 45 minutes, until puffy. Meanwhile heat the oven to 200°C (400°F) with a metal pan on the bottom rack. Boil some water.
6. If you did not use twine, cut one shallow slash about 6 mm (¼ in) deep along the length of each loaf. Lightly mist or brush the loaves with water.
7. Put the sheet in the oven and pour about 240 ml (1 cup) boiling water into the hot pan. Bake for 18 to 22 minutes, until light golden and hollow-sounding when tapped. Remove the twine if you used it.
8. Cool on a rack for at least 30 minutes. The crust will soften slightly as it cools, which is expected for this style.

Tips for success

• For pressed Cuban sandwiches, split the loaf lengthwise, layer roast pork, ham, Swiss cheese, pickles and mustard, butter the outside and press on a hot griddle until the cheese melts.
• Bake on the middle rack. Too close to the bottom heat and the base turns thick and dark.
• If your oven cannot fit 38 cm loaves on the diagonal, shape three 25 cm (10 in) loaves instead and bake them 15 to 18 minutes.

Substitutions

Lard

Vegetable shortening is the closest swap for texture. Butter gives more flavor and a slightly softer, richer crust that browns faster.

Bread flour

All-purpose flour works and gives a softer, more tender crumb. Reduce the water by 10 g.

Kitchen twine

Use a single shallow slash along the length. The split will be less dramatic but the loaf bakes the same.

Variations

Cuban sandwich rolls

Divide the dough into 8 pieces, shape each into an 18 cm (7 in) mini loaf, proof 30 minutes and bake for 14 to 16 minutes. Each makes one individual sandwich.

Cuban toast

Split a day-old loaf lengthwise, spread generously with butter and press on a hot griddle until crisp and golden. Serve with café con leche.

Troubleshooting

Crust is thick and chewy

Too little steam or the bake ran long. Use a steam pan and pull the loaves when light golden.

Loaves burst on the side

They were underproofed or the top was not scored or tied. Proof until puffy and use the twine or slash.

Crumb is coarse and holey

The dough was too wet or loosely shaped. Weigh the water and roll the logs tightly.

Bread went stale quickly

Normal for a lean, thin-crusted loaf. Wrap leftovers well, or freeze within a day and toast before using.

Storage

Cuban bread is best the day it is baked. Wrap it loosely in paper for up to 1 day at room temperature, or wrap tightly and freeze for up to 2 months.

Safety notes

Do not taste raw dough. Lard is an animal fat; use shortening for vegetarian diets. Contains wheat.