Bolillos (Mexican Sandwich Rolls)

Before you start

Bolillos are the everyday white rolls of Mexican bakeries: oval, about the length of a hand, with tapered ends, a single split down the top and a thin crust that crackles when you squeeze it. Inside, the crumb is soft and fairly tight, sturdy enough to hold a torta stacked with beans, meat, avocado and pickled chiles, or to be split, spread with refried beans and cheese and toasted as molletes.

The dough is lean, with a little sugar and fat to soften the crumb. The two defining steps are shaping and steam. Each roll is formed into a tight log, then rolled under the edges of your hands to make the pointed, slightly twisted ends. A burst of steam at the start of baking lets the scored top open into its characteristic ridge before the crust hardens, and gives that thin, glassy shell.

Ingredients

• 500 g (4 cups) bread flour
• 325 g (1⅓ cups) warm water — about 35°C (95°F)
• 6 g (2 tsp) instant yeast
• 10 g (2½ tsp) granulated sugar
• 10 g (1¾ tsp) fine salt
• 15 g (1 tbsp) lard, shortening or butter — softened

Method

1. Combine the flour, yeast, sugar and salt. Add the water and fat and knead on medium-low for 8 to 10 minutes, until smooth, elastic and slightly tacky.
2. Cover and let rise for 60 to 75 minutes, until doubled.
3. Divide into 8 pieces of about 105 g. Round each one loosely, cover and rest 15 minutes.
4. Flatten a ball into an oval. Fold the top third down and press, then fold the bottom up and seal the seam with the heel of your hand, making a tight log about 13 cm (5 in) long. Place the sides of your hands at each end and roll back and forth with light pressure to taper the ends into points, giving them a slight twist.
5. Set the rolls seam-side down on a parchment-lined sheet, 5 cm (2 in) apart. Cover and proof for 40 to 45 minutes, until puffy and a gentle poke springs back slowly.
6. Heat the oven to 220°C (425°F) with a metal pan on the bottom rack. Boil a kettle of water. Mist the rolls lightly with water, then cut one confident slash about 1 cm (½ in) deep down the length of each, holding the blade at a shallow angle.
7. Put the rolls in the oven and pour about 240 ml (1 cup) boiling water into the hot pan. Bake for 18 to 20 minutes, until golden and hollow-sounding underneath, with the scored ridge well opened.
8. Cool on a wire rack for 20 minutes. The crust will crackle and develop fine cracks as it cools.

Tips for success

• Use very little flour on the counter when shaping. Some friction helps the log tighten and the seam seal.
• For a more pronounced ridge, score just off-center and keep the blade nearly flat to the surface.
• For molletes, split the rolls, scoop out a little crumb, spread with refried beans, top with cheese and broil until melted. Serve with pico de gallo.

Substitutions

Bread flour

All-purpose flour makes softer, slightly flatter rolls. Use 10 to 15 g less water.

Lard

Shortening gives a very similar result. Butter adds flavor and browns a little faster; olive oil makes the crumb slightly more open.

Steam pan

Mist the oven walls with water from a spray bottle three times in the first 3 minutes of baking. It is less effective but still helps.

Variations

Teleras

For flatter torta rolls, shape oval disks about 2 cm (¾ in) thick and press two parallel lines down each with a floured dowel before proofing.

Overnight bolillos

Cut the yeast to 3 g and refrigerate the dough after mixing for 12 to 16 hours. Shape cold and allow about 75 minutes of proofing.

Troubleshooting

Score did not open

The rolls were overproofed or the cut was too shallow or vertical. Bake at the slow-spring-back stage and cut at a shallow angle.

Crust is thick and hard

Not enough steam or too long in the oven. Add steam at the start and pull the rolls as soon as they are golden.

Rolls are flat and wide

Loose shaping or overproofing. Build tension with tight folds and seal the seam well.

Ends are blunt

Taper them with light pressure at the edges of your hands; press too hard and you will tear them.

Storage

Store in a paper bag at room temperature for 1 day. Freeze in an airtight bag for up to 2 months, and crisp in a 190°C (375°F) oven for 6 to 8 minutes.

Safety notes

Do not taste raw dough. Contains wheat; milk if made with butter.