Cottage Loaf

Before you start

A cottage loaf looks like a squat snowman: a smaller round sitting on a larger one, joined by a deep hole pressed through the middle. It is a plain white loaf, and the whole challenge is getting the top to stay upright instead of sliding off or sinking into the base.

Three choices make that work. The dough is a little firmer than a typical sandwich dough, so it holds its shape. Both pieces are shaped very tightly so their skins are taut. And the final proof is shorter than usual; a fully proofed cottage loaf slumps in the oven. The vertical slashes around both tiers let the loaf expand outward evenly.

Ingredients

• 500 g (4 cups + 2 tbsp) strong white bread flour — plus more for dusting
• 10 g (1⅔ tsp) fine salt
• 7 g (2¼ tsp) instant yeast
• 320 ml (1⅓ cups) lukewarm water — about 30°C (86°F)
• 15 g (1 tbsp) unsalted butter or lard — softened

Method

1. Combine the flour, salt and yeast. Add the water and butter and mix to a firm dough. Knead by hand for 10 minutes or 7 to 8 minutes by machine, until smooth and elastic. It should feel firmer and less tacky than a sandwich dough.
2. Cover and let it rise until doubled, 60 to 90 minutes.
3. Turn it out and weigh it. Cut off one-third (about 280 g) for the top; the remaining two-thirds (about 570 g) is the base.
4. Shape each piece into a very tight ball by tucking the edges underneath and rolling it against the counter until the surface is smooth and taut. Rest both, seam side down and covered, for 10 minutes, then tighten them once more.
5. Set the large round on a parchment-lined sheet and flatten its top slightly. Place the small round squarely on top.
6. Dust your index and middle fingers (or the handle of a wooden spoon) with flour and push straight down through the center of the top round until you touch the baking sheet. This anchors the tiers together.
7. Cover and proof for 30 to 40 minutes only, until about 1½ times the size. Meanwhile heat the oven to 220°C (425°F) with a steam pan on the bottom rack.
8. Dust the loaf with flour. Cut 8 to 12 short vertical slashes around the side of each tier, about 5 mm (¼ in) deep. Put it in the oven and pour a cup of hot water into the steam pan.
9. Bake for 15 minutes, then reduce to 200°C (400°F) and bake 20 to 25 minutes longer, until deep golden and hollow-sounding underneath, with an internal temperature of about 96°C (205°F). Cool on a rack for 1 hour.

Tips for success

• Keep the two pieces at a strict 2:1 weight ratio. A top that is too heavy slips sideways.
• Push the hole all the way to the tray. A shallow press often pops back up and the top lifts off during baking.
• If the top starts to lean during proofing, bake immediately; the oven spring is gentler than further slumping.

Substitutions

Strong white bread flour

Use US bread flour at the same weight. All-purpose flour gives a softer dough that is more likely to sag; reduce the water by 20 ml.

Butter or lard

Olive oil works at the same weight. The crust is a little crisper and the crumb slightly less soft.

Variations

Half-wholemeal cottage loaf

Use 250 g wholemeal and 250 g white bread flour, with 20 ml more water. Keep the shaping just as tight.

Mini cottage rolls

Make six small loaves, each with a 90 g base and a 45 g top. Proof 25 minutes and bake at 220°C (425°F) for 18 to 20 minutes.

Troubleshooting

The top tier slid off or leaned

The dough was too soft, the rounds were loose or the press did not go through. Use a firmer dough, shape tightly and push all the way down.

The loaf flattened into one blob

It was overproofed. Shorten the final proof and bake while the dough still springs back fairly quickly.

Torn, ragged sides instead of neat slashes

The slashes were too shallow or missing. Cut cleanly around both tiers so the loaf expands where you want it to.

Storage

Keep in a bread bin or paper bag at room temperature for up to 3 days. Freeze whole or sliced for up to 3 months; refresh a thawed loaf at 180°C (350°F) for 8 to 10 minutes.

Safety notes

Raw dough contains uncooked flour and should not be tasted. Contains wheat and milk if made with butter.