Pan Loaf vs Free-Form Loaf

The same dough can become two very different breads. Baked in a loaf pan, it rises upward into a squared loaf with soft sides, even slices and a thin crust. Shaped free-form and baked on a stone, a steel or in a covered pot, it spreads a little, develops crust on every side and has an irregular, often more open crumb.

The right choice depends on the dough's hydration and strength, the texture you want, and how you plan to use the bread. This guide explains the trade-offs, which doughs suit each method and how to size a pan so the loaf fills it neatly.

What the pan does

A loaf pan holds the dough's sides, so even a slack or rich dough rises upward instead of outward. Metal or glass walls shield the sides from direct heat, which keeps them soft and pale while the top browns. The result is uniform slices with a fine crumb.

Because the pan does the supporting, you can use doughs that would spread flat on a baking sheet: whole grain doughs, doughs with lots of butter and sugar, or high-hydration gluten-free batters.

• Sandwich and pullman loaves
• Enriched loaves such as brioche and cinnamon swirl
• Rye and whole grain breads with weak gluten
• Quick breads and gluten-free breads

What free-form baking gives you

A loaf with no walls is exposed to heat on every side, so it develops a thick, well-browned crust all around. Lean doughs of flour, water, salt and yeast or levain are the classic choice, baked hot on a preheated stone or steel or inside a Dutch oven.

The dough has to support itself. That means good gluten development, enough fermentation and a tight shape with surface tension. Very wet doughs need a banneton or a covered pot to keep them from spreading.

• Boules, batards and baguettes
• Ciabatta and focaccia-like flatbreads
• Braided breads such as challah, which hold shape through the braid

Sizing a loaf pan

Pans in the US come mostly in two sizes, and the difference matters. An 8½ x 4½-inch pan suits dough made with about 360 to 420 g of flour, roughly 600 to 700 g of total dough. A 9 x 5-inch pan holds dough from about 420 to 500 g of flour, roughly 700 to 850 g of dough.

Too little dough makes a short, wide loaf; too much spills over the rim or bakes with a raw center. A pullman pan with a lid produces square slices and a tighter crumb, but needs a precise dough weight to fill it.

Temperatures and timing

Pan loaves of enriched dough are usually baked at 175 to 190°C (350 to 375°F) so the sugar and butter do not burn before the center sets. Expect 30 to 45 minutes depending on the size. Lean pan loaves can go hotter.

Free-form lean loaves typically start at 230 to 250°C (450 to 480°F) with steam or a lid for the first 20 minutes, then finish uncovered until deep brown. An instant-read thermometer helps: enriched breads are done at about 88 to 91°C (190 to 195°F), lean breads at about 96 to 99°C (205 to 210°F).

Converting a recipe from one to the other

Most pan-loaf doughs can be baked free-form if they are not too soft. Lower the hydration by a few percent, shape tightly and bake on parchment on a preheated stone. Expect a lower, wider loaf.

To bake a free-form recipe in a pan, shape the dough into a log that fits the pan length and proof until it crests just above the rim. Reduce the temperature by 10 to 15°C (25°F) if the top browns too fast, and bake until the internal temperature is right.

Common questions

Can I bake sourdough in a loaf pan?

Yes. Sourdough sandwich loaves are common and give even slices. Use a slightly lower oven temperature than for a free-form boule and grease the pan well, because acidic dough can stick.

Why does my pan loaf have a pale bottom and sides?

The pan shields the sides. Bake on a lower rack, use a dark metal pan, or remove the loaf from the pan for the last 5 to 10 minutes so the sides and bottom brown.

Do I need steam for a pan loaf?

Steam helps any bread rise fully before the crust sets, but soft sandwich loaves bake well without it. For a lean, crusty pan loaf, a little steam in the first 15 minutes is worth adding.