Za'atar Manakish

Before you start

Manakish (singular man'oushe) are the round flatbreads eaten for breakfast across Lebanon, Syria, Jordan and Palestine. The simplest and most common topping is za'atar: a blend of dried wild thyme or oregano, sumac and toasted sesame, loosened with plenty of olive oil and spread right to the edges. Bakeries make them in very hot ovens, and the edges puff while the oiled center stays soft and fragrant.

The main challenge at home is heat. The dough needs a fast, hot bake so it cooks before the herbs scorch, so preheat a stone, steel or heavy sheet for a long time. Press dimples all over each round with your fingertips before spreading the topping; the little wells hold the oil and stop the center from ballooning. Use a za'atar blend that smells bright and tangy, and add the oil just before spreading so the paste stays loose.

Ingredients

• Dough450 g (3¾ cups) all-purpose flour
• 7 g (2¼ tsp) instant yeast
• 1 tsp granulated sugar
• 1¼ tsp (8 g) fine salt
• 290 ml (1 cup + 3 tbsp) warm water — about 35°C (95°F)
• 2 tbsp (30 ml) olive oil
• Topping40 g (about 5 tbsp) za'atar blend — with sumac and sesame
• 90 ml (6 tbsp) extra-virgin olive oil
• To serve tomato, cucumber, mint, olives or labneh — optional

Method

1. Stir the flour, yeast, sugar and salt together. Add the warm water and 2 tbsp olive oil and mix until no dry flour remains. Knead for 8 to 10 minutes until smooth, soft and slightly tacky.
2. Cover and let rise at warm room temperature for 1 to 1¼ hours, until doubled.
3. Place the stone or steel on the lowest rack and heat the oven to 250°C (480°F) for at least 45 minutes. A heavy sheet needs about 20 minutes.
4. Divide the dough into 6 pieces of about 130 g. Round each into a smooth ball, cover with a towel and rest for 20 minutes so the gluten relaxes.
5. Stir the za'atar and 90 ml olive oil into a loose, spreadable paste.
6. On parchment, roll or press a ball into a 20 cm (8 in) round about 5 mm thick. Press your fingertips firmly all over the surface to make deep dimples, leaving a narrow rim untouched.
7. Spread about 2 tbsp of the za'atar paste over each round, right up to the rim.
8. Slide two rounds, on their parchment, onto the hot stone. Bake for 6 to 8 minutes, until the rims are puffed and spotted golden and the bottoms are crisp. On a sheet at 230°C (450°F) allow 9 to 11 minutes.
9. Serve warm, folded around slices of tomato, cucumber and fresh mint, or with labneh and olives.

Tips for success

• Stir the za'atar paste before each round. The herbs settle to the bottom and the last breads get only oil.
• If the herbs darken before the crust is done, the stone was not hot enough and the bread baked too slowly. Preheat longer, or add a few extra drops of oil to the paste.
• Leftover dough balls keep in the refrigerator, oiled and covered, for up to 2 days; bring them to room temperature for 30 minutes before shaping.

Substitutions

Za'atar blend

Mix 2 tbsp dried thyme, 1 tbsp dried oregano, 1 tbsp ground sumac, 1 tbsp toasted sesame and ½ tsp salt. It is milder than a good Levantine blend but close.

All-purpose flour

Replace a third with whole wheat flour for a nuttier, firmer bread; add 15 ml more water.

Za'atar topping

Use 150 g grated akkawi or mozzarella mixed with a little feta for cheese manakish, a common alternative to za'atar.

Variations

Half and half

Spread za'atar on one half of each round and cheese on the other, then fold to eat.

Chili and tomato

Mix 2 tbsp Aleppo pepper and 2 tbsp tomato paste into the oil for a spicy red topping.

Troubleshooting

Za'atar tastes burnt and bitter

The bread spent too long in a less-hot oven. Preheat the stone fully and bake at the highest heat for the shortest time.

The center puffed into a pocket

The dough was not dimpled firmly enough. Press deep wells across the middle so the steam cannot lift the top.

Bread is tough and crackerlike

It was rolled too thin or baked too long. Keep the rounds at about 5 mm and take them out once the rim browns.

Storage

Eat manakish the day they are baked. Wrap cooled leftovers and keep at room temperature for 1 day, or freeze for up to 1 month. Reheat in a dry skillet or a hot oven for 2 to 3 minutes.