Turkish Simit (Sesame Bread Rings)

Before you start

Simit is the street bread of Istanbul: a ring of twisted dough, dunked in diluted grape molasses and rolled in sesame, then baked until the crust turns mahogany and crisp while the inside stays chewy. It is often eaten for breakfast with tea, white cheese, olives and tomatoes. Unlike a bagel, it is not boiled; the molasses dip is what gives the dark, glossy color and lets the seeds cling.

The dough is lean and fairly firm, which makes rolling long ropes easy and gives the rings a defined twist. Use a generous amount of sesame and press the rings into it so every surface is covered. Pekmez, the Turkish grape molasses, is sold in Middle Eastern shops; it adds a mild fruit flavor, and its sugars brown quickly, so watch the color in the last few minutes.

Ingredients

• Dough500 g (4 cups) all-purpose flour
• 7 g (2¼ tsp) instant yeast
• 1 tsp granulated sugar
• 1½ tsp (9 g) fine salt
• 300 ml (1¼ cups) warm water — about 35°C (95°F)
• 2 tbsp (25 g) olive oil
• Coating120 ml (½ cup) grape molasses (pekmez)
• 240 ml (1 cup) water
• 150 g (1 cup) hulled sesame seeds

Method

1. Mix the flour, yeast, sugar and salt. Add the warm water and olive oil and knead for 8 to 10 minutes, until smooth and firm. The dough should not stick to your hands.
2. Cover and let rise for about 1 hour, until doubled. Meanwhile, toast the sesame in a dry skillet over medium-low heat, stirring, for 3 to 4 minutes until pale gold and fragrant. Spread it in a shallow dish to cool.
3. Stir the molasses and water together in the second dish. Heat the oven to 220°C (425°F) with racks in the upper and lower thirds.
4. Divide the dough into 16 pieces of about 52 g. Roll each into a rope about 45 cm (18 in) long. If the dough springs back, cover the ropes and rest them for 5 minutes, then continue.
5. Lay two ropes side by side, pinch them together at one end and twist them around each other along their length. Bring the ends together to form a ring and press the joint firmly, overlapping it slightly. Repeat to make 8 rings.
6. Dip each ring into the molasses water for a few seconds, turning it to coat, and let the excess drip off. Press both sides into the sesame until thickly covered.
7. Set the rings on the lined sheets and stretch them gently to about 15 cm across. Rest for 20 minutes, uncovered.
8. Bake for 18 to 22 minutes, swapping the sheets halfway, until the rings are deep reddish-brown and sound crisp when tapped. Cool on a rack for 15 minutes.

Tips for success

• Roll the ropes on an unfloured counter. A little friction helps them stretch evenly; flour makes them slide and twist loosely.
• Use the molasses dip warm if your pekmez is thick; it coats more evenly and drips off faster.
• The color comes fast near the end. Check at 16 minutes and lower the heat to 200°C (400°F) if the bottoms darken first.

Substitutions

Grape molasses

Pomegranate molasses is too sour on its own; mix 2 tbsp of it with 4 tbsp honey and the water. Date syrup is closer in flavor and works one for one.

Hulled sesame

Unhulled sesame gives a crunchier, slightly bitter coating with a darker look.

All-purpose flour

Bread flour makes a chewier ring; add 10 ml more water.

Variations

Cheese-stuffed simit

Roll each 104 g dough portion flat, lay a strip of grated kaşar or mozzarella along it, roll up into a single rope, seal and shape into a ring before dipping.

Whole wheat simit

Swap 150 g of the flour for whole wheat and add 20 ml water.

Troubleshooting

Rings opened at the joint

The ends were not overlapped or pressed hard enough. Overlap them by 2 cm and roll the joint under your palm to seal.

Sesame fell off after baking

The rings were not coated thoroughly in molasses or the dip was too thin. Use the 1:2 molasses-to-water ratio and press the seeds on firmly.

Crust burned before the inside cooked

The sugar in the molasses browned too fast. Bake on the middle rack, check early, and reduce the heat for the last few minutes if needed.

Storage

Simit is crisp for only a few hours. Keep leftovers in a paper bag at room temperature for 1 day and refresh in a 180°C (350°F) oven for 4 to 5 minutes. Freeze for up to 1 month.

Safety notes

Contains sesame, a major food allergen, and wheat. Keep the sesame dish and tools separate if you bake for someone with an allergy.