New York-Style Bagels

Before you start

A New York-style bagel is defined by its chew. The dough is far stiffer than most breads, at about 58 percent hydration, and is made with high-protein flour so that it develops a tight, elastic structure. Barley malt syrup adds a faint sweetness and helps the crust brown. After shaping, the bagels rest overnight in the refrigerator, which builds flavor and creates the tiny blisters many people look for on the surface.

The boil is what separates a bagel from a round roll. A brief dip in simmering malted water gelatinizes the outer starch, setting the shape and giving the crust its shine and snap once it bakes. Boil longer for a thicker, chewier skin, or shorter for a lighter one. A stiff dough will fight you during kneading; that resistance is normal, and a stand mixer makes the job easier.

Ingredients

• Dough500 g (4 cups) high-gluten or bread flour — at least 12.5% protein
• 290 g (1¼ cups) cool water — about 21°C (70°F)
• 15 g (2 tsp) barley malt syrup — or 10 g (2½ tsp) light brown sugar
• 10 g (1¾ tsp) fine salt
• 4 g (1¼ tsp) instant yeast
• Boil3 L (about 3 quarts) water
• 1 tbsp barley malt syrup
• 1 tbsp baking soda — optional; deepens color
• Topping3 tbsp sesame seeds, poppy seeds or everything seasoning — optional

Method

1. Combine the flour, water, malt syrup, salt and yeast in the mixer bowl. Mix on low for 2 minutes until a rough, dry-looking dough forms, then knead on medium-low for 8 to 10 minutes. It will be firm, smooth and only slightly tacky. If the mixer strains, rest the dough 5 minutes and continue.
2. Cover the dough and let it rest at room temperature for 1 hour. It will puff only a little; this rest relaxes the gluten so shaping is easier.
3. Divide into 8 pieces of about 100 g. Roll each into a tight ball, then into a rope about 25 cm (10 in) long, slightly thinner at the ends. Wrap the rope around your palm, overlap the ends by 4 cm (1½ in) under your hand, and roll the seam firmly on the counter to seal it.
4. Place the bagels on a parchment-lined sheet lightly dusted with semolina or oiled. Cover tightly and refrigerate for 12 to 24 hours.
5. Heat the oven to 230°C (450°F) with a rack in the center. Bring the water, malt syrup and baking soda to a gentle boil. Test one bagel in a bowl of cool water: if it floats within 10 seconds, they are ready. If it sinks, leave them at room temperature for 15 to 20 minutes and test again.
6. Boil 3 or 4 bagels at a time, 45 to 60 seconds per side, flipping with a slotted spoon. Lift them out, drain briefly, and press the tops into the seeds while they are still wet.
7. Arrange on a fresh parchment-lined sheet and bake for 18 to 22 minutes, rotating the pan halfway, until deep golden brown and glossy. Cool on a rack for at least 20 minutes before slicing, as the interior keeps setting.

Tips for success

• Shape with dry hands on an unfloured counter. A little friction helps the rope grip and seal.
• Make the hole bigger than you think, about 4 cm (1½ in) across. It shrinks noticeably in the boil and the oven.
• Do not skip the float test. Underproofed bagels bake up heavy and tight; overproofed ones wrinkle and flatten in the pot.
• For a darker, crackly crust, bake on a preheated baking steel and slide the bagels onto it on the parchment.

Substitutions

High-gluten flour

Ordinary bread flour works and gives a slightly softer chew. All-purpose flour makes a bagel closer to a dense roll; reduce the water by 10 g.

Barley malt syrup

Use honey or brown sugar in both the dough and boil. The bagels brown well but lose the malty, faintly bitter note.

Overnight retard

For same-day bagels, proof the shaped bagels at room temperature for about 45 minutes until they pass the float test. Flavor is milder and the crust has fewer blisters.

Variations

Cinnamon raisin bagels

Add 2 tsp ground cinnamon with the flour and knead in 100 g raisins at the end of mixing. Skip the seed topping.

Pumpernickel-style bagels

Replace 75 g of the bread flour with dark rye flour and add 1 tbsp cocoa powder and 1 tsp instant espresso. Add 10 g more water.

Troubleshooting

Bagels came apart at the seam

The overlap was too short or the dough was floured. Overlap the ends by at least 4 cm and roll the joint firmly against a clean, dry surface.

Bagels wrinkled after boiling

They were overproofed or boiled too long. Do the float test earlier and keep each side to about a minute.

Crust is pale and dull

The boil had no malt or the oven was too cool. Add malt syrup to the water and check the oven with a thermometer; bake until truly deep brown.

Bagels are flat on the bottom and bready

The dough was too wet or the bagels sat too long before baking. Weigh the water and move boiled bagels to the oven promptly.

Storage

Bagels are best the day they are baked. Store at room temperature in a paper bag for 1 day, or slice, bag airtight and freeze for up to 3 months. Toast from frozen.

Safety notes

Do not taste the raw dough, since uncooked flour can contain harmful bacteria. Hot boiling water and steam can scald; lower bagels in gently. Contains wheat; check seed toppings for allergens.