Potato Bread

Before you start

Potato bread is softer, moister and longer-keeping than a standard white loaf. Mashed potato adds starch that holds water through baking and storage, and the potato cooking water feeds the yeast and gives the dough extra lift. The result is a fine, springy crumb, a thin golden crust and a subtle, comforting flavor that works for sandwiches, toast and French toast.

The main variable is the potato. A floury russet mashed smooth and weighed after cooking gives the most consistent results; waxy potatoes and lumpy mash make the dough uneven. Because potato contains a lot of water, the dough looks drier at first than it really is. Knead patiently before adding any more liquid, and do not be surprised when it browns faster than a plain loaf.

Ingredients

• 200 g (1 medium) russet potato — peeled and cut into 2.5 cm (1 in) chunks; yields about 180 g mashed
• 180 g (¾ cup) potato cooking water — reserved and cooled to about 38°C (100°F)
• 450 g (3¾ cups) bread flour
• 25 g (2 tbsp) granulated sugar
• 10 g (1¾ tsp) fine salt
• 7 g (2¼ tsp) instant yeast
• 40 g (3 tbsp) unsalted butter — softened

Method

1. Cover the potato chunks with unsalted water by 2.5 cm (1 in) and simmer for 12 to 15 minutes, until very tender. Reserve at least 200 g of the cooking water, drain the potato and rice or mash it until completely smooth. Weigh out 180 g mashed potato and let it and 180 g of the cooking water cool to warm, about 20 minutes.
2. Combine the flour, sugar, salt and yeast in the mixer bowl. Add the mashed potato, warm potato water and butter. Mix on low for 2 minutes; the dough will look dry and shaggy at first.
3. Knead on medium-low for 8 to 10 minutes. As the potato releases moisture the dough will become smooth, soft and slightly tacky. Add a tablespoon of extra potato water only if it still feels stiff after 5 minutes.
4. Cover and let rise 60 to 90 minutes in a warm place, until doubled. Potato dough often rises a little faster than plain dough.
5. Grease the pan. Press the dough into a rectangle about 23 x 25 cm (9 x 10 in), roll it up tightly from a short side, pinch the seam and set it seam side down in the pan.
6. Proof until the dough crowns about 2.5 cm (1 in) above the rim, 45 to 60 minutes. Heat the oven to 190°C (375°F) during the last 20 minutes.
7. Bake 35 to 40 minutes, until golden brown and 93°C (200°F) inside, tenting with foil after 20 minutes if the top darkens. Turn out onto a rack and cool at least 1½ hours.

Tips for success

• Use leftover plain mashed potatoes if you have them, as long as they contain no garlic or cheese. Reduce the butter if they already contain some.
• Weigh the mashed potato instead of measuring by volume; mash packs very differently in a cup.
• A light dusting of flour on top before baking gives a classic soft, matte crust.

Substitutions

Russet potato

Yukon Gold works and adds a buttery color; the crumb is slightly denser. Avoid waxy red potatoes.

Fresh mashed potato

Use 40 g instant potato flakes plus 140 g extra warm water. The loaf will be just as soft.

Potato water

Plain water or milk works; milk makes the crust browner and the crumb richer.

Variations

Potato rolls

Divide into 15 pieces of about 60 g, bake in a 23 x 33 cm (9 x 13 in) pan at 190°C (375°F) for 20 to 24 minutes.

Chive potato bread

Knead 3 tbsp chopped fresh chives into the dough with the butter.

Troubleshooting

Dough too sticky to knead

The potato was waterlogged or the mash was measured by volume. Drain the potato well and weigh it; knead a little longer before adding flour.

Lumps of potato in the crumb

The potato was not mashed smoothly. Use a ricer or press it through a sieve.

Crust very dark

Potato sugars brown quickly. Tent with foil earlier and use a light metal pan.

Storage

Keep the loaf wrapped at room temperature for 4 to 5 days; potato bread stays soft longer than most. Freeze sliced for up to 3 months. Refrigerate leftover cooked potato for up to 3 days.

Safety notes

Do not taste raw dough. Contains wheat and milk.