Jewish Deli Rye with Caraway

Before you start

Deli rye is mostly wheat with a smaller share of rye flour, which is why it slices thin and stays springy while still tasting clearly of rye and caraway. It is baked free-form on a dusting of cornmeal and finished with a cornstarch wash that sets into a thin, shiny, crackly crust.

Rye flour has little gluten-forming protein and plenty of gummy starches, so the dough feels sticky and clay-like compared with white bread. Wet your hands rather than adding lots of flour. A short rye sponge gives the yeast a head start and adds a mild tang without the work of a sourdough. The other key is cooling: rye crumb keeps setting for hours, so slice too soon and it turns pasty.

Ingredients

• Rye sponge200 g (about 1¾ cups) medium or light rye flour
• 250 ml (1 cup + 1 tbsp) lukewarm water — about 32°C (90°F)
• 3 g (1 tsp) instant yeast
• Dough360 g (3 cups) bread flour
• 110 ml (scant ½ cup) lukewarm water
• 4 g (1¼ tsp) instant yeast
• 11 g (scant 2 tsp) fine salt
• 15 g (1 tbsp) granulated sugar
• 1 tbsp caraway seeds — plus 1 tsp for the top
• 15 ml (1 tbsp) neutral oil
• Glaze and pan1 tsp cornstarch — whisked into 120 ml (½ cup) cold water
• 2 tbsp cornmeal — for the baking sheet

Method

1. Stir the rye flour, 250 ml water and 1 tsp yeast into a thick paste. Cover and leave at room temperature for 2 hours; it will puff, crack on top and smell lightly sour.
2. Add the bread flour, 110 ml water, remaining yeast, salt, sugar, 1 tbsp caraway and the oil. Mix on low for 2 minutes, then knead on medium-low for 6 to 7 minutes. The dough will stay tacky; it should feel cohesive and slightly elastic, not soupy.
3. With wet hands, gather the dough into a ball in an oiled bowl. Cover and let it rise until about 1½ times its size, 50 to 70 minutes. Rye dough does not double as dramatically as white dough.
4. Meanwhile, simmer the cornstarch and water in a small pan, stirring, until it thickens and turns translucent, about 1 minute. Let it cool.
5. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured counter and shape it into a tight oval about 28 cm (11 in) long. Set it on a sheet of parchment sprinkled with cornmeal.
6. Cover and proof for 40 to 50 minutes, until puffy and a fingertip dent fills back slowly. Heat the oven to 220°C (425°F) with a stone or sheet on the middle rack and an empty metal pan on the bottom rack.
7. Brush the loaf with cornstarch glaze, sprinkle with the remaining caraway and cut three or four diagonal slashes about 1 cm (½ in) deep. Slide it onto the stone and pour a cup of hot water into the steam pan. Close the door quickly.
8. Bake 15 minutes, lower the heat to 200°C (400°F), brush on a second coat of glaze, and bake another 20 to 25 minutes, until the crust is shiny and deep brown and the center reads 96 to 99°C (205 to 210°F).
9. Brush once more with glaze straight out of the oven, then cool on a rack for at least 2 hours before slicing.

Tips for success

• Light or medium rye gives the classic pale deli crumb. Dark or whole-grain rye (pumpernickel meal) makes a heavier, darker loaf.
• Lightly crush half the caraway with a rolling pin to release more aroma while keeping some seeds whole for texture.
• Protect your oven glass when adding steam: drape a towel over the window and pour carefully, then remove the towel.

Substitutions

Light rye flour

Whole rye flour works at the same weight but absorbs more water; add 15 to 30 ml (1 to 2 tbsp) and expect a denser, darker loaf.

Granulated sugar

Use 1 tbsp molasses for a slightly darker crust and a hint of bitterness.

Caraway seeds

Leave them out for a seedless rye, or swap in 1 tsp dill seed for a different savory note.

Variations

Marbled rye

Divide the dough in half and knead 1 tbsp cocoa powder and 1 tsp water into one half. Roll both into rectangles, stack and roll them up together.

Seeded rye rolls

Shape into 10 rolls, glaze, top with caraway and coarse salt and bake at 220°C (425°F) for 20 minutes.

Troubleshooting

The slices are gummy

The loaf was cut while warm or underbaked. Bake to at least 96°C (205°F) and wait a full 2 hours.

Loaf spread flat in the oven

The dough was too wet or overproofed. Hold back 15 ml of water next time and bake when the dent still springs back slowly.

Crust is dull, not shiny

The glaze was too thin or applied only once. Cook it until translucent and brush before, during and after baking.

Storage

Keep the loaf cut side down on a board for a day, then wrap it and store at room temperature for up to 4 days. Rye keeps its moisture well. Freeze slices for up to 3 months.

Safety notes

Do not taste the raw dough; uncooked flour can carry harmful bacteria. Contains wheat and rye (gluten).