How to Whip Egg Whites to Stiff Peaks

Whipped egg whites can grow to several times their starting volume, which is why they lift meringues, sponge cakes and souffles. The proteins in the white unfold as you beat and link around air bubbles, forming a foam. How far you beat, and when you add sugar, decides whether that foam is soft and pourable or stiff and glossy enough to pipe.

The skill is mostly about recognizing stages and stopping at the right one. This guide shows what each stage looks like, explains the role of sugar and acid, lists the things that stop whites from whipping, and covers what to do when you go too far.

Setting up for success

Fat interferes with the protein films that hold bubbles, so even a small streak of yolk or a greasy bowl reduces volume. Wipe the bowl and whisk with a paper towel moistened with a little vinegar or lemon juice. Avoid plastic bowls, which hold on to grease.

Separate eggs while cold, since the yolk is firmer and less likely to break. Crack each egg over a small cup first, then add the clean white to the main bowl, so one broken yolk does not spoil the batch. Let the whites warm for 20 to 30 minutes before beating.

The four stages

Watch the whites closely as you go; the change from one stage to the next can take less than a minute at high speed. Lift the whisk out of the bowl and turn it upside down to judge the peak.

• Foamy: large, loose bubbles and a clear, liquid base. This is when to add cream of tartar.
• Soft peaks: the foam is white and holds a peak that slumps over almost immediately.
• Firm peaks: the peak holds with a tip that curls over like a wave; the foam looks smooth and shiny.
• Stiff peaks: the peak stands straight up with at most a tiny bent tip; the foam is dense and glossy and clings to the bowl.

When and how to add sugar

Sugar stabilizes the foam and gives meringue its gloss, but added too early it slows whipping and limits volume. Begin beating on medium until the whites are foamy and opaque, then add the sugar a spoonful at a time while increasing to medium-high speed.

For a sweet meringue, keep beating until the sugar dissolves; rub a little foam between your fingers and it should feel smooth rather than gritty. Superfine sugar dissolves faster than regular granulated sugar. For unsweetened whites folded into savory dishes or some batters, skip the sugar and watch closely, since plain whites overwhip quickly.

Acid and other stabilizers

A little acid helps the proteins form a stronger, more forgiving foam. Use about ⅛ tsp cream of tartar per large egg white, or ½ tsp lemon juice or white vinegar per white. Add it at the foamy stage.

A copper bowl has a similar effect, though few home bakers need one. A pinch of salt adds flavor but does nothing for stability; some bakers find it slows foaming slightly.

Overwhipping and how to rescue it

Overwhipped whites lose their gloss, look dry and cottony, and break into clumps when folded. Liquid may weep from the bottom of the bowl. The proteins have tightened so much that they squeeze out water and the bubbles start to collapse.

To recover, add one more fresh egg white and beat briefly on medium until the foam looks smooth again. This works for whites intended for folding. Sweet meringue whipped with sugar is much harder to overwhip, which is one reason sugar is added early in that case.

Using the whites safely

Use whipped whites straight away; foam begins to drain and separate within minutes. Whites destined for baking will be cooked through. For desserts served with raw or lightly cooked whites, such as some mousses, use pasteurized eggs or pasteurized liquid whites. Carton whites whip, but more slowly and to less volume than fresh ones.

Common questions

Can I whip egg whites by hand?

Yes, with a large balloon whisk and a wide bowl. Expect 3 to 5 minutes to reach soft peaks and longer for stiff ones. Tilt the bowl slightly and use big circular strokes that lift air into the foam.

Why won't my whites whip at all?

Fat or yolk in the bowl is the usual cause. Very fresh whites from just-laid eggs, cold whites and plastic bowls also slow the process.

Do older eggs whip better?

Slightly older eggs have thinner whites that foam faster, though the foam can be a little less stable. For most home baking, eggs within their date work well.