Angel Food Cake

Before you start

Angel food cake is made from egg whites, sugar and cake flour, with no butter, oil or yolks. The whites, whipped with cream of tartar and sugar, provide all of the lift and structure, giving a tall, pure white cake with a soft, springy, slightly chewy crumb and a sweet, golden crust.

The key decisions are how stiff to whip the whites and how gently to fold in the flour. Whip to soft-to-medium peaks that are glossy and bend at the tip; stiff, dry whites cannot expand further in the oven and the cake ends up short and cracked. The pan must be ungreased so the batter can cling to the sides as it climbs, and the cake must cool upside down so it does not collapse.

Ingredients

• 120 g (1 cup) cake flour
• 300 g (1½ cups) superfine or granulated sugar — divided 100 g and 200 g
• 360 g (about 12 large) egg whites — room temperature
• 1½ tsp cream of tartar
• ½ tsp fine salt
• 1½ tsp vanilla extract
• ½ tsp almond extract

Method

1. Heat the oven to 175°C (350°F) with a rack in the lower third. Do not grease the pan.
2. Sift the cake flour with 100 g sugar three times; this aerates it and keeps it from clumping when folded in.
3. Whip the egg whites in a clean, grease-free bowl on medium until foamy, about 1 minute. Add the cream of tartar and salt and whip on medium-high until soft peaks form.
4. With the mixer running, add the remaining 200 g sugar a tablespoon at a time, then add the vanilla and almond extract. Whip until the whites are glossy and form medium peaks that curl over at the tip, not stiff and dry.
5. Sift a quarter of the flour mixture over the whites and fold gently with a whisk or large spatula, cutting down through the center and turning the bowl. Repeat with the rest in three more additions, folding just until no flour pockets remain.
6. Spoon the batter into the pan and run a knife through it once to remove large air pockets. Smooth the top.
7. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until the top is golden, the cracks look dry and the cake springs back when pressed lightly.
8. Immediately turn the pan upside down onto the neck of a bottle or onto its own feet and cool completely, about 2 hours. Run a thin knife around the sides and tube to release, then slice with a serrated knife.

Tips for success

• Any trace of yolk or grease in the bowl prevents the whites from whipping properly. Separate the eggs cold, one at a time into a small bowl, and wipe the mixer bowl with a little vinegar.
• Store-bought cartoned egg whites often do not whip well; separating fresh eggs is more reliable.
• Saw with a serrated knife instead of pressing down, which compresses the delicate crumb.

Substitutions

Cake flour

Use 100 g all-purpose flour plus 20 g cornstarch. The crumb is slightly less tender.

Cream of tartar

Use 1½ tsp lemon juice or white vinegar to stabilize the whites. The cake is slightly less white and stable.

Almond extract

Use lemon zest or more vanilla for a different flavor profile.

Variations

Chocolate angel food

Replace 25 g of the cake flour with sifted cocoa powder.

Berries and cream

Serve slices with macerated strawberries and lightly sweetened whipped cream.

Troubleshooting

Cake collapsed or shrank

It was underbaked, the pan was greased or nonstick, or it was cooled right side up. Bake until springy and cool upside down.

Dense, rubbery layer at the bottom

The flour was not folded in thoroughly or the whites deflated. Fold gently but completely.

Large holes in the crumb

Air pockets trapped while filling the pan. Run a knife through the batter before baking.

Storage

Keep the cake covered at room temperature for up to 2 days. It freezes well, wrapped, for up to 2 months. Save the 12 yolks for custard or curd; refrigerated yolks should be used within 2 days.

Safety notes

The batter contains raw egg whites and flour; bake before tasting. Contains wheat and egg.