Sourdough English Muffins

Before you start

English muffins are a soft, lightly enriched dough cooked on a griddle instead of in an oven. Both flat faces brown against the hot surface while the sides stay pale, and the inside steams into the irregular, open crumb that catches butter when you split them with a fork. Sourdough suits them well: an overnight rise gives a gentle tang and a more open interior than a quick yeasted version.

The skill here is heat control. The muffins are about 2 cm thick, so a griddle that is too hot burns the outsides while the centers stay doughy. Cook them low and slow, about 6 to 7 minutes per side, and check the center temperature or finish them briefly in the oven if you are unsure. Split with a fork rather than a knife; a knife slices through the nooks.

Ingredients

• 120 g (½ cup) active sourdough starter — 100% hydration
• 240 ml (1 cup) whole milk — lukewarm
• 20 g (1½ tbsp) granulated sugar or honey
• 360 g (2¾ cups plus 2 tbsp, spooned and leveled) all-purpose flour
• 7 g (1¼ tsp) fine salt
• 30 g (2 tbsp) unsalted butter — very soft
• ¼ tsp baking soda — optional, mixed in the morning for extra lift and a milder tang
• about 40 g (¼ cup) cornmeal or semolina — for dusting

Method

1. In the evening, whisk the starter, milk and sugar until combined. Add the flour and salt and mix into a shaggy dough. Rest 20 minutes, then work in the soft butter and knead for 5 to 7 minutes until the dough is smooth, soft and slightly tacky.
2. Cover and leave at cool room temperature, about 20 to 21°C (68 to 70°F), for 8 to 10 hours, until roughly doubled and domed.
3. In the morning, if using baking soda, sprinkle it over the dough and knead briefly to distribute it. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and roll it out evenly to 2 cm (¾ in) thick.
4. Dust the lined baking sheet with half the cornmeal. Cut rounds with the cutter, pressing straight down, and set them on the sheet 3 cm apart. Gather the scraps, let them rest 10 minutes, then reroll and cut once more. Dust the tops with the remaining cornmeal.
5. Cover loosely and proof for about 1 hour, until the muffins look puffy and spring back slowly when pressed.
6. Heat the griddle over medium-low until a few drops of water sizzle gently rather than dance, around 150 to 160°C (300 to 325°F) on the surface. Do not oil it; the cornmeal prevents sticking.
7. Cook the muffins in batches, without crowding, for 6 to 7 minutes per side, until both faces are deep golden brown and the sides feel springy. The centers should read about 93°C (200°F). If the faces brown before the centers are done, finish the muffins in a 175°C (350°F) oven for 5 to 8 minutes.
8. Cool on a rack for at least 20 minutes, then split with a fork and toast before serving.

Tips for success

• Cook a test muffin first to dial in the heat. Gas and electric burners vary widely at the same setting.
• Keep the cut muffins on the baking sheet and move them to the griddle with a spatula; picking them up by hand deflates them.
• The rerolled scraps make slightly tighter muffins. Cook them last so you can judge the heat on the best ones.

Substitutions

All-purpose flour

Replace up to 90 g with whole wheat flour for a nuttier muffin. Add 1 to 2 tbsp milk because it absorbs more liquid.

Whole milk

Buttermilk gives more tang and a more tender crumb; use the baking soda if you make this swap. Plain water gives a chewier, leaner muffin.

Butter

Neutral oil at the same weight. The flavor is plainer but the texture is nearly the same.

Variations

Cinnamon raisin English muffins

Knead 80 g raisins and 1½ tsp cinnamon into the dough in the evening along with the butter.

Oven-baked batch

Brown the muffins on the griddle for 2 to 3 minutes per side, then bake all of them at once on a sheet at 175°C (350°F) for 10 to 12 minutes.

Troubleshooting

Burnt outside, raw inside

The griddle was too hot. Lower the heat so each side takes 6 to 7 minutes, and finish in the oven if the centers are under 93°C (200°F).

Flat muffins without nooks

The dough was underfermented or rolled too thin. Let it fully double overnight, roll to 2 cm and proof the cut rounds until puffy.

Lopsided or domed tops

The dough was rolled unevenly or the cutter was twisted. Roll to an even thickness and cut straight down; flipping halfway also levels them.

Storage

Keep at room temperature in a bag for up to 3 days. Split them with a fork before freezing and freeze for up to 3 months; toast straight from frozen.

Safety notes

Do not taste the raw dough; uncooked flour can carry harmful bacteria. Contains wheat and milk.