Sourdough Bagels

Before you start

Bagels need a very stiff dough, about 56 percent hydration, which gives the tight, chewy crumb that defines them. The dough is hard to knead by hand at first but becomes smooth and satiny with a few minutes of work. A long cold retard of the shaped bagels builds flavor and gives the tang that wild yeast offers; it also firms the dough so the bagels keep their shape in the pot.

Boiling sets the outer layer before baking, which is what makes the shiny, chewy crust and limits how much the bagel can expand in the oven. A longer boil gives a thicker, chewier crust. Barley malt syrup in the dough and water adds a slight sweetness and helps the deep brown color; honey works if you cannot find malt.

Ingredients

• Dough100 g (scant ½ cup) active sourdough starter — 100% hydration, at its peak
• 260 g (1 cup plus 1 tbsp) water — about 26°C (78°F)
• 15 g (2 tsp) barley malt syrup or honey
• 500 g (4 cups) high-protein bread flour
• 10 g (1¾ tsp) fine salt
• Boiling water3 liters (3 qt) water
• 1 tbsp barley malt syrup or honey
• 1 tsp baking soda
• Toppingto taste sesame, poppy seeds or everything bagel seasoning
• Panas needed semolina or cornmeal

Method

1. Dissolve the starter and malt syrup in the water. Add the flour and salt and mix into a stiff, shaggy dough. Knead with a dough hook on low speed for 8 to 10 minutes, or by hand for 12 to 15 minutes, until smooth and firm. It will feel much drier than bread dough.
2. Cover and bulk ferment at about 24°C (75°F) for 4 to 6 hours, until the dough is noticeably puffy and about 50 percent larger. Stiff dough rises slowly, so do not expect it to double.
3. Divide into 8 pieces of about 110 g. Roll each into a tight ball, cover and rest 10 minutes.
4. Shape: poke your thumb through the center of a ball, then stretch the hole by rotating the dough around two fingers until it is about 5 cm (2 in) across; it will shrink. Place on a semolina-dusted, parchment-lined sheet.
5. Cover the sheet tightly and refrigerate for 12 to 18 hours.
6. Heat the oven to 230°C (450°F). Bring the water, malt syrup and baking soda to a boil. Drop one bagel into a bowl of cold water: if it floats within a few seconds, the batch is ready to boil. If it sinks, leave the bagels at room temperature for 20 to 30 minutes and test again.
7. Boil 2 or 3 bagels at a time for 45 to 60 seconds per side, then lift them out with a slotted spoon, let excess water drip off and dip the tops into toppings while wet. Return them to the lined sheet.
8. Bake for 18 to 22 minutes, rotating the pan halfway, until deep golden brown. Cool on a rack for at least 20 minutes before slicing.

Tips for success

• Seal the hole well when shaping and make it larger than you think; a small hole closes up completely during the boil and bake.
• Spray the parchment with a little oil under the bagels after boiling so the wet dough does not stick.
• For a crisper bottom, bake the bagels on a preheated baking steel or stone after the first 5 minutes on the sheet.

Substitutions

Barley malt syrup

Honey or brown sugar at the same weight. The flavor is slightly less malty and the crust a shade lighter.

High-protein bread flour

All-purpose flour works but gives a softer, less chewy bagel. Reduce the water by 10 g.

Overnight retard

Proof the shaped bagels at room temperature for 1 to 2 hours until they pass the float test. Flavor will be milder.

Variations

Cinnamon raisin

Knead 100 g raisins and 2 tsp cinnamon into the dough at the end of mixing; skip seed toppings.

Everything bagels

Mix 1 tbsp each sesame and poppy seeds, 2 tsp dried minced onion, 2 tsp dried minced garlic and 1 tsp flaky salt for dipping.

Troubleshooting

Bagels sank and stayed flat in the pot

They were underproofed. Let them sit at room temperature and repeat the float test until one floats within a few seconds.

Wrinkled, deflated crust

Overproofing or boiling too long. Shorten the retard or bulk, and boil for no more than 60 seconds per side.

Holes closed up

The hole was too small or the dough not relaxed enough. Rest the balls longer and stretch the holes to about 5 cm.

Storage

Keep in a paper bag at room temperature for 1 to 2 days. Slice and freeze for up to 3 months; toast straight from frozen.

Safety notes

Lower and lift the bagels gently to avoid splashes of boiling water. Do not taste the raw dough. Contains wheat, and sesame if used as a topping.