Maritozzi (Roman Cream Buns)

Before you start

Maritozzi are a Roman breakfast pastry: small, oval, brioche-like buns perfumed with orange and lemon zest, split down the top and stuffed with an extravagant amount of whipped cream that is smoothed flush with the cut. The bun is soft and just lightly sweet, so the cream is the star.

Two things decide the result. The buns must be completely cool before filling, or the cream will melt and slide out. And the cream should be whipped firmly, to stiff peaks, so it holds a clean, flat face. Fill them shortly before serving; the bun softens as it sits against the cream.

Ingredients

• Buns300 g (2½ cups, spooned and leveled) all-purpose flour
• 45 g (3½ tbsp) granulated sugar
• 5 g (1½ tsp) instant yeast
• ¾ tsp (5 g) fine salt
• 1 orange, finely zested
• 1 lemon, finely zested
• 2 large eggs — room temperature
• 90 ml (⅓ cup + 1 tbsp) whole milk — lukewarm
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• 60 g (4 tbsp) unsalted butter — very soft
• Glaze1 large egg yolk — beaten with 1 tbsp milk, for brushing
• 2 tbsp granulated sugar — dissolved in 2 tbsp hot water
• Filling400 ml (1⅔ cups) heavy cream — very cold
• 40 g (⅓ cup) powdered sugar — plus more for dusting
• 1 tsp vanilla extract

Method

1. Combine the flour, sugar, yeast, salt and both zests in the mixer bowl. Add the eggs, milk and vanilla and knead on low for 4 minutes, until the dough comes together.
2. With the mixer on medium-low, add the butter a spoonful at a time. Knead 8 to 10 minutes more, until the dough is smooth, elastic and stretches into a thin sheet without tearing.
3. Cover and let rise until doubled, 1½ to 2 hours at warm room temperature.
4. Divide the dough into 8 pieces of about 75 g. Roll each into a tight ball, then roll it under your palm into a short oval about 9 cm (3½ in) long. Place on a lined sheet 6 cm apart.
5. Cover and proof until puffy and nearly doubled, about 1 hour. Heat the oven to 180°C (350°F). Brush the buns gently with the yolk wash.
6. Bake for 15 to 18 minutes, until deep golden and the center reads 88°C (190°F). Brush with the sugar syrup as soon as they come out, then cool completely on a rack, at least 45 minutes.
7. Whip the cold cream with the powdered sugar and vanilla to stiff peaks that hold straight up.
8. With a serrated knife, cut each bun diagonally from the top almost to the bottom, leaving the base attached. Open it gently, pack in a generous amount of cream and smooth the exposed cream flat with an offset spatula. Dust with powdered sugar and serve.

Tips for success

• Chill the mixing bowl and whisk for 10 minutes before whipping the cream; it whips faster and holds better.
• For neat sides, run the offset spatula across the cream in one stroke, then wipe the spatula clean before the next bun.
• If the buns brown fast, tent them with foil after 10 minutes; the enriched dough colors quickly.

Substitutions

Heavy cream filling

Stabilize the cream by beating in 60 g cold mascarpone with the powdered sugar. It holds longer and tastes richer.

Orange and lemon zest

Use 2 oranges for a sweeter scent, or add ½ tsp ground cardamom for a nontraditional twist.

Instant yeast

Use 5 g active dry yeast dissolved in the lukewarm milk for 5 minutes.

Variations

Chocolate maritozzi

Fold 40 g finely chopped dark chocolate into the whipped cream.

Pistachio maritozzi

Beat 2 tbsp pistachio cream into the whipped cream and press chopped pistachios onto the exposed cream.

Troubleshooting

Cream melted and slid out

The buns were still warm, or the cream was underwhipped. Cool completely and whip to firm, stiff peaks.

Buns are dense and small

The dough was underkneaded or underproofed. Knead until it stretches thin and proof until clearly puffy.

Buns split along the bottom

The seam was not tucked underneath, or the oven was hot before they finished proofing. Shape tightly and give them the full proof.

Storage

Unfilled buns keep airtight for 1 day or freeze for 1 month. Once filled, keep maritozzi in the refrigerator and eat them within a few hours. Do not leave cream-filled buns at room temperature for more than 2 hours.

Safety notes

Whipped cream is perishable; refrigerate filled buns promptly. The raw dough contains egg and should not be tasted. Contains wheat, milk and egg.