Liège Waffles

Before you start

Liège waffles are made from a rich yeast dough, not a pourable batter. The dough is close to brioche, full of butter and egg, and it gets kneaded with Belgian pearl sugar just before cooking. In the hot iron the outer nuggets of sugar melt and caramelize into a crunchy, glassy coating, while the inside stays soft and chewy. They are dense, sweet and meant to be eaten out of hand, without syrup.

Two things matter most. Use real Belgian pearl sugar, which is made of large compressed nuggets that survive mixing and only partly melt; smaller pearl sugar or sugar cubes dissolve too fast. Also, keep the iron at medium heat, because caramel goes from golden to burnt quickly at full heat.

Ingredients

• 120 ml (½ cup) whole milk — warmed to about 40°C (105°F)
• 7 g (2¼ tsp) instant yeast
• 25 g (2 tbsp packed) light brown sugar
• 2 large eggs — room temperature
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• 360 g (about 3 cups, spooned and leveled) all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp (6 g) fine salt
• 170 g (¾ cup) unsalted butter — very soft, in pieces
• 170 g (about 1 cup) Belgian pearl sugar

Method

1. Stir the warm milk, yeast and brown sugar in the mixer bowl. Add the eggs, vanilla, flour and salt and mix on low until combined, about 2 minutes.
2. With the mixer running on medium-low, add the butter a few pieces at a time, waiting until each addition disappears. Knead for 8 to 10 minutes total, until the dough is smooth, shiny and pulls cleanly from the sides. It will be soft.
3. Cover and let rise at warm room temperature until doubled, about 90 minutes. For more flavor, refrigerate it overnight instead and let it sit out 30 minutes before continuing.
4. Turn the dough onto the counter and knead in the pearl sugar by hand until evenly scattered. Divide into 12 pieces of about 80 g and roll each into a rough ball. Rest, covered, for 15 minutes.
5. Heat the waffle iron to medium. Lightly grease it only if your iron is not nonstick.
6. Place one dough ball in the center of the iron (two on a large Belgian iron, spaced apart) and close the lid. Do not press hard.
7. Cook for 3 to 5 minutes, until the waffle is deep golden with amber caramel spots. Lift it out with tongs and cool on a rack for a couple of minutes; the caramel is extremely hot and crisps as it cools.
8. Repeat with the remaining dough. Between batches, wipe off any burnt sugar with a folded, damp paper towel held in tongs.

Tips for success

• Cool the waffles on a rack, not a plate; trapped steam softens the caramel crust.
• If the sugar starts to smoke, lower the heat a notch. The iron will run hotter as you go.
• To clean the iron afterward, unplug it, lay a damp paper towel inside and close the lid for a few minutes to soften the caramel, then wipe.

Substitutions

Belgian pearl sugar

Roughly crushed sugar cubes are the closest home substitute, though they melt more and can stick. Swedish pearl sugar is too small and mostly dissolves.

Light brown sugar

Granulated sugar works; the waffles will be slightly less caramel-flavored.

Instant yeast

Use the same amount of active dry yeast, proofed in the warm milk for 5 minutes first.

Variations

Cinnamon Liège waffles

Knead 1 tsp ground cinnamon into the dough along with the pearl sugar.

Chocolate-dipped waffles

Dip cooled waffles halfway into 100 g melted dark chocolate and let set on parchment.

Troubleshooting

Sugar burned before the waffle cooked through

The iron was too hot. Use medium heat and allow the full 3 to 5 minutes.

Dough is too sticky to shape

It is a soft, buttery dough. Chill it for 20 minutes and oil your hands lightly rather than adding flour.

Waffles are dense and heavy

The dough did not rise fully or the yeast was weak. Let it double before adding the sugar, and use fresh yeast.

Storage

Keep cooled waffles airtight at room temperature for up to 2 days, or freeze for up to 2 months. Reheat in a toaster or a 175°C (350°F) oven for 5 to 8 minutes to re-crisp the caramel; avoid the microwave, which makes them chewy.

Safety notes

Caramelized sugar can burn skin badly; let waffles cool a few minutes before biting. Do not eat the raw dough. Contains wheat, egg and milk.