Soft Lavash Flatbread

Before you start

Lavash is a thin flatbread made across Armenia, Iran, Turkey and the Caucasus. Traditional bakers slap huge sheets onto the walls of a clay tonir oven, and the result can be soft or dried crisp for storage. This home version aims for the soft kind: large, thin sheets that fold around kebabs, cheese and herbs without cracking.

Two things keep lavash soft. First, a small amount of yogurt and oil in the dough adds tenderness. Second, and more important, each sheet goes straight from the hot pan into a stack under a clean towel, where its own steam relaxes the crust. Roll the dough very thin, about 2 mm, and cook it fast over high heat; longer, gentler cooking dries it into a cracker.

Ingredients

• 375 g (3 cups) all-purpose flour
• 4 g (1¼ tsp) instant yeast
• 1 tsp (6 g) fine salt
• 1 tsp granulated sugar
• 180 ml (¾ cup) warm water — about 35°C (95°F)
• 60 g (¼ cup) plain whole-milk yogurt — room temperature
• 2 tbsp (30 ml) olive oil
• 2 tsp sesame or nigella seeds — optional, for topping

Method

1. Combine the flour, yeast, salt and sugar. Add the warm water, yogurt and olive oil and mix into a shaggy dough. Knead for 6 to 8 minutes until smooth and soft but not sticky.
2. Cover and let rise for about 1 hour, until puffy and about 1½ times its size. Lavash does not need a full double.
3. Divide the dough into 8 pieces of about 80 g, roll each into a ball, cover and rest for 15 minutes.
4. Heat the skillet over medium-high heat for at least 5 minutes, until a drop of water skitters and evaporates in a second or two.
5. On a lightly floured counter, roll one ball into a round or oval about 25 cm (10 in) across and 2 mm thick, thin enough that you can almost see the counter through it. Mist with water and sprinkle with seeds if using, pressing them in.
6. Lay the sheet in the dry pan. Cook for 45 to 60 seconds, until bubbles form and the underside has light brown spots. Flip and cook 30 to 45 seconds more.
7. Immediately stack the cooked sheet on a towel and fold the towel over it. Roll the next sheet while each one cooks, and keep stacking under the towel.
8. Once all the sheets are cooked, leave them wrapped for 10 minutes. They will soften and become pliable enough to roll around fillings.

Tips for success

• Adjust the heat as you go. If sheets brown before they bubble, lower it slightly; if they take more than a minute to spot, raise it.
• Roll from the center outward and turn the dough often. Even thickness means no crisp edges and no raw center.
• For a larger batch, bake on an upturned, preheated sheet pan at 250°C (480°F) for 2 to 3 minutes per sheet, without flipping.

Substitutions

Plain yogurt

Replace it with an equal amount of water plus 1 extra teaspoon of oil. The bread will be a little less tender and less tangy.

All-purpose flour

Use up to half whole wheat flour for a heartier sheet; add 15 ml water and expect a slightly stiffer roll.

Instant yeast

Active dry yeast works in the same amount; dissolve it in the warm water first and allow 15 more minutes of rising.

Variations

Herb lavash

Knead 2 tbsp finely chopped fresh dill or parsley into the dough after the first minute of kneading.

Crisp lavash crackers

Bake rolled sheets on a sheet pan at 200°C (400°F) for 8 to 10 minutes until dry and golden, then break into pieces.

Troubleshooting

Lavash cracks when folded

It was overcooked or not wrapped quickly. Take it out once it has light spots and stack it under the towel the moment it leaves the pan.

Dough shrinks back when rolled

The gluten is too tight. Cover the balls and rest them for 10 more minutes, then roll again.

Thick, bready sheets

The dough was not rolled thin enough. Aim for about 2 mm; it puffs very little, so what you roll is close to what you get.

Storage

Store cooled lavash stacked in a sealed bag at room temperature for 2 days or freeze for up to 2 months, with parchment between sheets. If a sheet dries out, sprinkle it lightly with water and wrap it in a towel for 10 minutes.