Italian Meringue Macarons

Before you start

The Italian method makes macarons with a cooked meringue: hot sugar syrup is poured into whipping egg whites, which produces a dense, very stable foam that tolerates more folding and holds up better in humid kitchens. Many pastry shops use it because batch after batch comes out the same. It takes a candy thermometer and some timing, but it is more forgiving at the folding stage than the French method.

The egg whites are split into two portions. Half goes straight into the almond and sugar mixture to make a thick paste; the other half becomes the meringue. Because the paste and meringue are mixed together, the final batter is smoother and the shells come out glossy and even. Rest is optional with this method, though a short one helps.

Ingredients

• Almond paste150 g (1½ cups) finely ground blanched almond flour
• 150 g (1¼ cups) powdered sugar
• 55 g (about 1½ large) egg whites — room temperature
• 1 small dab gel or powder food coloring — optional
• Italian meringue150 g (¾ cup) granulated sugar
• 40 ml (2 tbsp plus 2 tsp) water
• 55 g (about 1½ large) egg whites — room temperature
• Filling150 g (5 oz) white chocolate — finely chopped
• 50 ml (3½ tbsp) heavy cream
• 3 tbsp seedless raspberry jam

Method

1. Line the sheets with parchment. Sift the almond flour and powdered sugar together; if the mix is coarse, pulse it in a food processor for 10 seconds first.
2. Add 55 g egg whites and the coloring to the almond mixture and stir into a thick, uniform paste. Cover and set aside.
3. Put the second 55 g of whites in the mixer bowl. Combine the granulated sugar and water in the saucepan and heat over medium, stirring only until the sugar dissolves, then leave it alone. Clip on the thermometer.
4. When the syrup reaches 110°C (230°F), start whipping the whites on medium speed until they hold soft peaks.
5. When the syrup reaches 118°C (244°F), take it off the heat. With the mixer on medium, pour it in a thin, steady stream down the side of the bowl, avoiding the whisk.
6. Raise the speed to high and whip for 6 to 10 minutes, until the meringue is thick, glossy and has cooled to about body temperature. The bowl should feel just slightly warm.
7. Stir a third of the meringue into the almond paste to loosen it. Fold in the rest in two additions, pressing and scraping until the batter falls from the spatula in a thick ribbon that melts back into the surface in about 10 to 15 seconds.
8. Pipe 3.5 cm rounds onto the sheets, holding the bag upright. Rap each sheet firmly on the counter several times. Let them rest for about 20 minutes while the oven heats to 150°C (300°F).
9. Bake one sheet at a time for 14 to 16 minutes, until the shells have even feet and do not wobble when touched gently. Cool completely before removing.
10. For the filling, heat the cream until steaming and pour it over the white chocolate. Stir until smooth and chill for about 30 minutes until thick enough to pipe. Pipe a ring of ganache on half the shells, add a small dot of jam in the center and sandwich with the remaining shells.

Tips for success

• Use a small saucepan so the syrup is deep enough to read on the thermometer. Shallow syrup gives false low readings and overcooks quickly.
• Do not pour hot syrup onto the whisk; it spins into sugar threads on the bowl wall instead of mixing in.
• Weigh the egg whites in two separate portions before you start so you are not scrambling while the syrup heats.

Substitutions

White chocolate ganache

Use a classic vanilla buttercream or a dark chocolate ganache. Dark chocolate sets firmer and needs less chilling.

Raspberry jam

Lemon curd, passion fruit curd or salted caramel work as the center. Use small amounts, since wet centers soften shells faster.

Almond flour

Up to half can be replaced with finely ground pistachios for pistachio macarons; sift thoroughly and expect slightly more speckled shells.

Variations

Salted caramel macarons

Tint the shells pale gold and fill with a thick salted caramel buttercream.

Vanilla bean macarons

Leave the shells uncolored, add the seeds of half a vanilla pod to the almond paste and fill with vanilla bean buttercream.

Troubleshooting

Meringue is runny or will not stiffen

The syrup was too cool or poured too quickly. Bring it to 118°C and pour it in a thin stream, then whip until cooled and very thick.

Sugar crystals or hard threads in the bowl

The syrup was stirred while boiling or hit the whisk. Do not stir after the sugar dissolves, and pour down the side of the bowl.

Shells are wrinkled or bumpy

The batter was underfolded or the almond flour was coarse. Grind and sift well and fold until the batter ribbons and settles smoothly.

Browned tops on pale shells

The oven runs hot or the rack is too high. Lower the temperature by 10°C (20°F) and slide an empty sheet onto the rack above to shield the tops.

Storage

Refrigerate filled macarons in an airtight container for up to 4 days and serve at room temperature. Unfilled shells keep airtight at room temperature for 2 days or in the freezer for up to 1 month.

Safety notes

Hot sugar syrup at 118°C (244°F) causes serious burns; pour carefully and keep children away. The egg whites are cooked by the syrup and the bake. Contains tree nuts, egg and milk. Do not leave ganache-filled macarons out for more than 2 hours.