French Macarons

Before you start

Macarons are small almond meringue cookies sandwiched with a filling. The French method is the simplest version: egg whites are whipped with granulated sugar into a firm meringue, and a sifted mix of almond flour and powdered sugar is folded in. The folding, called macaronage, decides success more than anything else. Too little and the shells stay lumpy and crack; too much and the batter runs flat and the shells have no feet.

Weigh everything, including the egg whites. After piping, the shells rest until a dry skin forms on top so the steam escapes through the bottom and lifts the shells into the characteristic ruffled foot. Filled macarons taste best after a day in the fridge, when the filling softens the shell slightly.

Ingredients

• Shells100 g (1 cup) finely ground blanched almond flour
• 100 g (about ¾ cup plus 1 tbsp) powdered sugar
• 75 g (about 2 large) egg whites — room temperature
• 75 g (⅓ cup plus 2 tsp) granulated sugar
• ⅛ tsp cream of tartar — optional
• 1 small dab gel food coloring — optional
• Ganache100 g (3½ oz) dark chocolate (55 to 70%) — finely chopped
• 100 ml (scant ½ cup) heavy cream

Method

1. Line the sheets with parchment. Draw 3.5 cm circles 3 cm apart on the underside of the paper as a guide if you like.
2. Sift the almond flour and powdered sugar together twice, discarding any coarse almond bits left in the sieve (up to 1 tbsp).
3. Whisk the egg whites and cream of tartar on medium until foamy. Add the granulated sugar a spoonful at a time, then whip on medium-high until the meringue is very glossy and holds a stiff, straight peak, about 6 to 8 minutes. Add the color in the last minute.
4. Add the almond mixture to the meringue in two parts. Fold firmly with the spatula, pressing the batter against the side of the bowl and scraping it back to the middle, to deflate it gradually.
5. Test often. The batter is ready when it flows off the spatula in a thick, continuous ribbon and a figure eight drawn with it holds briefly before sinking back in about 10 seconds. Stop as soon as it reaches this point.
6. Transfer to the piping bag. Hold the bag straight up just above the sheet and pipe 3.5 cm rounds. Rap the sheet firmly on the counter three or four times to release air and pop any bubbles with a toothpick.
7. Rest the shells at room temperature for 30 to 60 minutes, until the tops feel dry and are no longer tacky when touched lightly. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 150°C (300°F), checking with an oven thermometer.
8. Bake one sheet at a time on the middle rack for 15 to 18 minutes, until the shells have feet and lift cleanly from the paper without sticking. Cool completely on the sheet.
9. For the ganache, bring the cream just to a simmer, pour it over the chocolate, wait 1 minute and stir until smooth. Let it thicken at room temperature for about 30 minutes, until pipeable.
10. Pair shells of matching size. Pipe a small mound of ganache on one shell of each pair and sandwich gently. Refrigerate in an airtight container for 24 hours, then bring to room temperature for 20 minutes before serving.

Tips for success

• Humidity slows skin formation. On damp days, rest the shells longer or run a fan in the room.
• Separate the eggs a day ahead and keep the whites covered in the fridge, then bring them to room temperature. Older whites whip to a more stable meringue.
• Every oven behaves differently with macarons. Bake a few test shells to find your best time and rack position.

Substitutions

Almond flour

Use finely ground hazelnut or pistachio flour, or half and half with almond. Nut flours with more oil can make the shells spotty, so sift well and keep the bake gentle.

Chocolate ganache

Fill with vanilla buttercream, jam inside a buttercream ring, or lemon curd. Very wet fillings soften the shells quickly, so fill those close to serving.

Liquid food coloring

Use gel or powder colors only. Liquid colors add water and can make the batter too runny.

Variations

Raspberry macarons

Tint the shells pink and fill with white chocolate ganache piped in a ring with a dot of seedless raspberry jam in the center.

Coffee macarons

Add 1 tsp instant espresso powder to the almond flour mixture and stir 1 tsp dissolved espresso into the ganache.

Troubleshooting

Shells cracked on top

They did not rest long enough, or air was trapped. Rest until dry to the touch and rap the sheet firmly after piping.

Shells baked with no feet

The batter was overfolded or the shells did not form a skin. Stop folding at the ribbon stage and rest the shells until no longer tacky.

Hollow shells

The meringue was underwhipped or the oven was too hot. Whip to stiff, glossy peaks and lower the oven by 10°C (20°F) if hollows continue.

Lopsided or spreading shells

The batter was overmixed or piped at an angle. Fold less and hold the bag straight above the sheet.

Shells stick to the paper

They are underbaked. Bake 1 to 2 minutes longer, and let them cool completely before lifting.

Storage

Keep filled macarons in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days, and bring them to room temperature before eating. Unfilled shells freeze for up to 1 month; filled macarons also freeze well for up to 1 month.

Safety notes

The egg whites in the shells are cooked by baking. Contains tree nuts (almonds), egg and milk. Ganache contains cream, so do not leave filled macarons at room temperature for more than 2 hours.