French Crullers with Honey Glaze

Before you start

French crullers are made from choux pastry, the same egg-rich paste used for cream puffs. Piped through a large star tip into rings and fried, the paste puffs from steam and sets into a hollow, eggy, almost custardy interior with a delicate, ridged crust. The star tip is not just decoration: those ridges give the cruller its texture and help it expand evenly.

The paste needs the right consistency. After beating in the eggs, it should be glossy and fall from the spatula in a thick ribbon that leaves a V-shaped tail. Fry them slightly longer and at a slightly lower temperature than yeast donuts, so the inside dries out and the shells do not collapse as they cool.

Ingredients

• Choux paste240 ml (1 cup) water
• 85 g (6 tbsp) unsalted butter — cut into pieces
• 1 tbsp granulated sugar
• ½ tsp fine salt
• 130 g (1 cup + 1 tbsp, spooned and leveled) all-purpose flour
• 3 to 4 large eggs (about 200 g without shells) — room temperature, beaten
• For fryingAbout 2 liters (2 quarts) neutral frying oil
• Honey glaze180 g (1½ cups) powdered sugar
• 2 tbsp honey
• 3 tbsp whole milk
• Pinch fine salt

Method

1. Bring the water, butter, sugar and salt to a full boil in a saucepan. Remove from the heat, add all the flour at once and stir vigorously until a smooth ball forms.
2. Return the pan to medium heat and stir for 1 to 2 minutes to dry the paste, until it leaves a thin film on the bottom of the pan.
3. Transfer the paste to a bowl or mixer and beat for 2 to 3 minutes to release steam, until it is warm but not hot.
4. Beat in the eggs a little at a time, letting each addition absorb before adding more. Stop when the paste is glossy and falls from the spoon in a thick ribbon that leaves a V-shaped tail. You may not need all of the last egg.
5. Lightly grease the parchment squares. Pipe a 7.5 cm (3 in) ring onto each, overlapping the ends slightly. Heat at least 5 cm (2 in) of oil to 185°C (365°F) in a pot no more than half full.
6. Lower 3 crullers at a time into the oil, paper side up, and remove the paper with tongs once it releases. Fry 2½ to 3 minutes per side, until deep golden and the crullers feel light for their size.
7. Drain on the rack for a few minutes. Whisk the powdered sugar, honey, milk and salt until smooth and fairly thin.
8. Dip the top of each slightly warm cruller into the glaze, let the excess drip off and set it back on the rack until the glaze sets, about 10 minutes.

Tips for success

• Undercooked crullers collapse as they cool. If in doubt, fry 30 seconds longer and break one open: the inside should be moist and lacy, not wet.
• An open star tip with fewer, deeper teeth gives the most pronounced ridges.
• Keep the oil steady; crullers fried too cool absorb grease and fried too hot brown before the center sets.

Substitutions

Water

Half water and half milk gives a richer, browner cruller that is slightly less crisp.

All-purpose flour

Bread flour makes a sturdier, taller cruller with a crisper shell.

Honey glaze

A plain vanilla glaze or a dusting of cinnamon sugar both work. For maple, replace the honey with maple syrup.

Variations

Baked crullers

Pipe the rings onto a lined sheet and bake at 200°C (400°F) for 15 minutes, then 180°C (350°F) for 15 to 20 minutes more without opening the door. They will be lighter and drier.

Lemon honey glaze

Replace 1 tbsp of the milk with lemon juice and add ½ tsp finely grated lemon zest.

Troubleshooting

Crullers flattened and collapsed

The paste was too wet or they were underfried. Add egg gradually, stop at the ribbon stage and fry until deep golden.

Crullers split or burst in the oil

The paste was too stiff. Add a little more beaten egg to reach a glossy, slightly loose consistency.

Paste turned greasy and separated

The eggs went in while it was too hot, or it was not dried enough. Cool it to warm before adding the eggs.

Storage

Crullers are best eaten within a few hours. Keep leftovers uncovered or loosely covered at room temperature for up to 1 day; an airtight container softens the glaze and crust.

Safety notes

Frying oil is extremely hot: use a deep, heavy pot, add the crullers gently and keep a lid within reach. Never pour water on burning oil. Do not taste the raw paste, which contains uncooked egg. Contains wheat, egg and milk.