Chocolate Éclairs

Before you start

An éclair is three parts that must each be right: a long choux shell that stays straight and hollow, a pastry cream thick enough to hold its shape, and a glaze that sets glossy rather than streaky. Make the pastry cream first, since it needs at least two hours to chill, and bake the shells while it cools.

The piping matters more than it looks. A French star tip and a firm, steady squeeze give even ridges that expand without random splits, and a template drawn on the parchment keeps every éclair the same length so they bake evenly. Fill through small holes in the base for a neat finish, then dip the tops in ganache that is warm but not hot, around 32–35°C.

Ingredients

• Pastry cream500 ml (2 cups) whole milk
• 1 vanilla bean, split, or 2 tsp vanilla extract
• 5 large egg yolks (about 90 g)
• 110 g (½ cup) granulated sugar
• 40 g (⅓ cup) cornstarch
• 30 g (2 tbsp) unsalted butter — cold
• Choux shells100 ml (⅓ cup + 1 tbsp) water
• 100 ml (⅓ cup + 1 tbsp) whole milk
• 90 g (6 tbsp) unsalted butter
• ½ tsp fine salt
• 1 tsp granulated sugar
• 120 g (1 cup) bread flour — sifted
• 4 large (about 200 g) eggs — beaten
• Chocolate glaze120 g (4 oz) dark chocolate (55–65%) — finely chopped
• 100 ml (⅓ cup + 1 tbsp) heavy cream
• 1 tbsp light corn syrup

Method

1. Make the pastry cream. Heat the milk with the vanilla bean until steaming. Whisk the yolks, sugar and cornstarch in a bowl until pale, then slowly whisk in half the hot milk.
2. Pour the mixture back into the pan and whisk constantly over medium heat. Once it thickens, keep it at a gentle bubble for 1 to 2 minutes so the starch fully cooks and the cream loses its floury taste.
3. Off the heat, whisk in the cold butter (and the extract if using). Spread in a shallow dish, press plastic wrap onto the surface and refrigerate at least 2 hours, until cold.
4. Heat the oven to 190°C (375°F). Draw twelve 13 cm (5 in) lines on parchment, spaced 5 cm apart, and flip the paper onto two sheets.
5. Bring the water, milk, butter, salt and sugar to a boil. Add the flour all at once, stir into a ball, then cook over low heat for 2 to 3 minutes until a film forms. Beat in a mixer for 1 minute, then add eggs gradually until the paste is shiny and drops in a V.
6. Holding the bag at 45 degrees, pipe along each line with even pressure, about 2.5 cm (1 in) wide. Stop squeezing at the end and flick the tip back over the éclair to finish cleanly.
7. Bake 15 minutes, lower to 170°C (340°F) and bake 20 to 25 minutes more, until deep golden and dry in the ridges. Do not open the oven in the first 25 minutes. Cool on a rack.
8. Poke three small holes in the base of each shell with a chopstick. Whisk the cold pastry cream until smooth, fill the round-tip bag and pipe into each hole until the éclair feels heavy and cream just appears at the holes.
9. For the glaze, bring the cream and corn syrup to a simmer, pour over the chocolate, rest 1 minute and stir smooth. Cool to 32–35°C (90–95°F). Dip the top of each éclair, let the excess drip, and wipe the edges with a finger. Chill 20 minutes to set.

Tips for success

• Pipe a test éclair and bake it with the batch; break it open to check that the inside is dry before you fill the rest.
• Whisk the chilled pastry cream briefly but do not overbeat, which can thin it.
• If the glaze is too thick to dip, warm it in 5-second bursts; too thin, let it cool a few degrees more.

Substitutions

Bread flour

All-purpose flour works; the shells are slightly more tender and may bow a little more as they bake.

Cornstarch

Use 50 g all-purpose flour instead. The cream will be slightly less glossy and needs a full 2 minutes of bubbling.

Ganache glaze

For a firmer, classic finish use poured fondant tinted with melted chocolate, or dip in melted chocolate thinned with 1 teaspoon neutral oil.

Variations

Coffee éclairs

Dissolve 2 teaspoons instant espresso in the hot milk for the pastry cream and glaze with coffee fondant or white chocolate ganache flavored with espresso.

Salted caramel éclairs

Fold 100 g cooled salted caramel sauce into the finished pastry cream and dip the tops in a thin caramel glaze.

Troubleshooting

Éclairs cracked along the sides

The paste was a little stiff or piped with a round tip. Loosen with a bit more egg and use a French star tip.

Pastry cream is runny

It did not boil long enough, so the starch never fully thickened, or enzymes from the yolks thinned it. Next time keep it bubbling a full 1 to 2 minutes.

Glaze looks streaky or dull

It was too hot or too cool when dipped. Hold it at 32–35°C (90–95°F) and dip once without going back.

Shells turn soft within hours

They were underbaked. Bake until the ridges are deep golden and let them dry before filling.

Storage

Refrigerate filled éclairs and eat them within 24 hours; the shells soften with time. Pastry cream keeps, covered, for up to 3 days in the refrigerator. Do not leave filled éclairs out more than 2 hours. Unfilled shells freeze for 1 month.

Safety notes

The pastry cream is boiled, which takes the yolks well above 71°C (160°F). It is perishable: keep it and the filled éclairs refrigerated. Contains wheat, egg and milk.