Sicilian Cannoli

Before you start

Cannoli are Sicilian fried pastry tubes filled with sweetened ricotta. A great cannolo has a shell that shatters, covered in tiny bubbles, and a filling that is creamy but thick, not runny. The bubbles come from the dough, which is made with wine and a little fat and rolled very thin, then fried at a moderate heat so it blisters before it browns.

The filling is simpler than it looks. Ricotta must be drained, because watery cheese soaks the shell and slides out the ends. Use whole-milk ricotta (sheep's milk if you can find it, as in Sicily) and give it at least four hours in a sieve. Most important of all, fill the shells only just before serving. Even a perfect shell softens within an hour of meeting the filling.

Ingredients

• Shells250 g (2 cups) all-purpose flour — plus more for rolling
• 25 g (2 tbsp) granulated sugar
• ¼ tsp fine salt
• ½ tsp ground cinnamon
• 1 tbsp unsweetened cocoa powder — optional, for color
• 40 g (3 tbsp) lard or unsalted butter — cold
• 1 large egg — plus 1 egg white for sealing
• 90 ml (6 tbsp) dry Marsala wine
• 1 tbsp white wine vinegar
• For frying1.5 liters (6 cups) neutral oil — such as peanut or canola
• Filling900 g (2 lb) whole-milk ricotta — drained at least 4 hours
• 120 g (1 cup) powdered sugar — plus more for dusting
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• 1 orange, finely grated zest
• ¼ tsp ground cinnamon
• 80 g (½ cup) mini chocolate chips
• 40 g (⅓ cup) shelled pistachios — finely chopped, for the ends

Method

1. Line a sieve with cheesecloth, set it over a bowl and drain the ricotta in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours or overnight. Discard the liquid.
2. For the shells, pulse the flour, sugar, salt, cinnamon and cocoa. Add the cold lard and pulse into fine crumbs. Add the egg, Marsala and vinegar and pulse until the dough clumps. Knead for 3 to 4 minutes until smooth and firm. Wrap and rest for 1 hour at room temperature.
3. Divide the dough in half. Roll each piece through a pasta machine, working down to the second-thinnest setting, or roll by hand to about 1.5 mm (1/16 in). The dough should be nearly translucent.
4. Cut 10 cm (4 in) rounds and roll each slightly into an oval. Wrap an oval loosely around a lightly oiled tube, brush the overlapping edge with egg white and press to seal. Flare the ends a little.
5. Heat the oil in a heavy pot, no more than halfway full, to 175°C (350°F). Fry 2 or 3 shells at a time for 1½ to 2 minutes, turning, until blistered and deep golden.
6. Lift them out with tongs and drain on paper towels. When cool enough to handle, about 1 minute, hold each tube with a towel and slide the shell off. Cool the tubes before wrapping the next batch. Cool all shells completely.
7. For the filling, beat the drained ricotta with the powdered sugar, vanilla, orange zest and cinnamon until smooth and thick. For an extra-silky texture, press it through a sieve first. Fold in the chocolate chips and refrigerate until needed.
8. Just before serving, pipe the filling into each shell from both ends. Dip the ends in pistachios and dust with powdered sugar.

Tips for success

• Rolling thin is the secret to blisters. Thick dough fries hard and smooth instead of light and bubbly.
• Keep the egg-white seal off the tube itself, or the shell will glue to the metal and crack as you slide it off.
• Brush the inside of cooled shells with a thin layer of melted dark chocolate if you need them to stay crisp a little longer once filled.

Substitutions

Marsala

Use a dry white wine, or for an alcohol-free dough, white grape juice with an extra 1 tbsp vinegar. The shells blister a little less.

Whole-milk ricotta

Mix 600 g ricotta with 300 g mascarpone for a richer, smoother filling; it needs less draining.

Lard

Butter gives more flavor and slightly less crispness; vegetable shortening is the most neutral and crisp.

Variations

Candied orange cannoli

Replace the chocolate chips with 60 g finely chopped candied orange peel and dip the ends in more peel.

Chocolate shell cannoli

Increase the cocoa in the dough to 2 tbsp and fill with ricotta flavored with espresso powder.

Troubleshooting

Shells are smooth with no bubbles

The dough was rolled too thick or the oil was too cool. Roll to about 1.5 mm and keep the oil near 175°C (350°F).

Shells unrolled in the oil

The seam did not seal. Use egg white on the overlap only and press firmly.

Filling is runny

The ricotta was not drained enough. Drain it longer and, if needed, stir in 1 to 2 tablespoons more powdered sugar.

Storage

Unfilled shells keep airtight at room temperature for up to 1 week. Refrigerate the filling, covered, for up to 3 days. Filled cannoli are best within 1 hour; refrigerate leftovers and eat them the same day.

Safety notes

Hot oil causes severe burns; keep the pot no more than half full and never leave it unattended. Some alcohol from the Marsala may remain in the fried shells. Keep the ricotta filling refrigerated. Contains wheat, egg, milk and tree nuts (pistachio).