Savory Cheddar Chive Muffins

Before you start

A savory muffin is closer to a cheese biscuit than to a sweet muffin. The batter has only a spoonful of sugar, which helps browning without adding sweetness, and it leans on sharp cheddar, chives, black pepper and dry mustard for flavor. Mustard powder does not make the muffins taste of mustard; it makes the cheese taste sharper.

Use an aged, sharp cheddar and grate it yourself. Pre-shredded cheese is coated with starch to stop clumping, so it melts less smoothly and tastes milder. Fold most of the cheese into the batter and save some for the tops, where it bakes into a crisp, lacy crust. Grease the pan well: melted cheese glues muffins to the cups.

Ingredients

• 280 g (2¼ cups, spooned and leveled) all-purpose flour
• 1 tbsp (12 g) baking powder
• ½ tsp baking soda
• 1 tsp fine salt
• 1 tbsp granulated sugar
• ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
• ½ tsp dry mustard powder
• pinch cayenne pepper — optional
• 170 g (about 2 cups loosely packed) sharp cheddar — coarsely grated, divided
• 3 tbsp (about 10 g) fresh chives — finely sliced
• 2 large eggs
• 300 ml (1¼ cups) buttermilk
• 85 g (6 tbsp) unsalted butter — melted and slightly cooled

Method

1. Heat the oven to 200°C (400°F). Grease the muffin cups and the top of the pan thoroughly; paper liners tend to stick to melted cheese.
2. Whisk the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, sugar, pepper, mustard and cayenne in a large bowl. Set aside 40 g of the cheese for the tops, then toss the rest and the chives through the flour so every shred is coated.
3. Whisk the eggs, buttermilk and melted butter in another bowl until smooth.
4. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry and fold just until no dry flour remains. The batter will be thick and shaggy with cheese.
5. Divide among the cups, filling them to the top. Sprinkle the reserved cheese over the muffins.
6. Bake for 18 to 21 minutes, until the muffins are deep golden, the cheese on top is browned and crisp at the edges and a toothpick in the center comes out clean.
7. Cool in the pan for 10 minutes. Run a thin knife around each muffin to free any cheese stuck to the pan, then lift them out. Serve warm.

Tips for success

• Grate the cheese coarsely. Fine shreds disappear into the crumb; coarse ones leave melty pockets.
• Green onion tops can stand in for chives if that is what you have; use the same amount, sliced thin.
• Serve split and toasted with a fried egg, or warm alongside tomato soup or chili.

Substitutions

Sharp cheddar

Gruyère, smoked Gouda or pepper Jack at the same weight. Softer cheeses like mozzarella melt but add little flavor, so add extra salt and pepper.

Buttermilk

Milk with 1 tbsp lemon juice, or plain yogurt thinned with milk. The muffins will be slightly less tender and tangy.

Chives

1 tbsp chopped fresh dill or thyme gives a different but equally good herb flavor.

Variations

Bacon cheddar

Fold in 4 slices of cooked, crumbled bacon with the cheese and reduce the salt to ¾ tsp.

Jalapeño cheddar

Replace the chives with 1 seeded, finely diced jalapeño and add ½ tsp smoked paprika.

Troubleshooting

Muffins stuck to the pan

Melted cheese bonded to the metal. Grease generously, include the pan's top surface, and let the muffins cool for 10 minutes before removing.

Bland flavor

Mild cheddar or pre-shredded cheese was used, or the salt was cut. Use aged sharp cheddar, grate it fresh, and keep the mustard and pepper.

Greasy bottoms

Very oily cheese or too much fat on the pan. Grease with a thin layer and choose a firm aged cheddar rather than a soft, oily one.

Storage

Eat within a day at room temperature, or refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 4 days. Reheat at 175°C (350°F) for 6 to 8 minutes. Freeze for up to 2 months.

Safety notes

Do not taste the raw batter, which contains raw egg and raw flour. Contains wheat, egg and milk.