Pistachio Cake with Real Pistachio Paste

Before you start

Many pistachio cakes owe their flavor to almond extract and their bright green color to food coloring or instant pudding. This one uses pure pistachio paste, which is simply ground roasted pistachios, plus finely ground kernels in the batter. The result tastes clearly of pistachio, slightly savory and toasty, with a crumb tinted a soft olive green rather than a neon shade.

The main decision is the paste. Look for one labeled as 100 percent pistachio, unsweetened, rather than a sweetened pistachio cream, which contains sugar and oil and would throw off the recipe. Peeled, bright green kernels give the most color. A tart lemon glaze balances the richness and keeps the top moist.

Ingredients

• Cake180 g (1½ cups, spooned and leveled) all-purpose flour
• 50 g (⅓ cup) shelled unsalted pistachios — finely ground
• 1½ tsp baking powder
• ½ tsp fine salt
• 115 g (½ cup) unsalted butter — softened
• 100 g (⅓ cup plus 1 tbsp) pure unsweetened pistachio paste — stirred well
• 200 g (1 cup) granulated sugar
• 3 large eggs — room temperature
• 120 g (½ cup) plain whole-milk yogurt — room temperature
• 60 ml (¼ cup) whole milk
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• Glaze120 g (1 cup) powdered sugar — sifted
• 2 tbsp fresh lemon juice
• 30 g (¼ cup) chopped pistachios — for topping

Method

1. Heat the oven to 175°C (350°F). Grease the pan and line the base with parchment.
2. Pulse the 50 g pistachios with 2 tbsp of the flour in a food processor until finely ground, about 20 one-second pulses; the flour stops the nuts turning to paste. Whisk with the remaining flour, baking powder and salt.
3. Beat the butter, pistachio paste and sugar on medium-high for 3 to 4 minutes, until lighter and fluffy. Beat in the eggs one at a time and then the vanilla, scraping the bowl well.
4. Whisk the yogurt and milk together. With the mixer on low, add the flour mixture in three parts alternating with the yogurt mixture in two, mixing just until smooth.
5. Spread the batter in the pan and bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until the top is golden, the center springs back and a toothpick comes out clean.
6. Cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then turn out onto a rack, peel off the paper and turn the cake right side up. Cool completely, about 1 hour.
7. Whisk the powdered sugar and lemon juice to a thick, pourable glaze. Pour over the cake, letting a little drip down the sides, and scatter the chopped pistachios on top.

Tips for success

• Stir the pistachio paste well before measuring. Oil separates to the top in the jar, and uneven paste changes the batter's fat content.
• If you can find Sicilian or peeled pistachios, use them for both the paste and the ground nuts; their skins are removed, so the crumb is greener.
• A pinch of salt in the glaze brings out the pistachio flavor.

Substitutions

Pistachio paste

Make your own by blending 120 g lightly toasted pistachios with 1 tbsp neutral oil for 5 to 8 minutes, until smooth and runny.

Yogurt

Sour cream works in the same amount and gives a slightly richer, tangier crumb.

Lemon glaze

Lightly sweetened whipped cream or mascarpone makes a softer topping; add it just before serving and refrigerate leftovers.

Variations

Pistachio-rose cake

Add 1 tsp rose water to the batter and replace the lemon juice in the glaze with milk plus ½ tsp rose water. Scatter dried rose petals on top.

Pistachio loaf

Bake the batter in a 23 x 13 cm (9 x 5 in) loaf pan at 165°C (325°F) for 55 to 65 minutes.

Troubleshooting

Cake tastes faintly of pistachio

The paste was diluted or sweetened. Use pure 100 percent pistachio paste and taste it first; it should taste strongly of roasted nuts.

Color is brownish, not green

Unpeeled, heavily roasted nuts and overbaking both mute the color. Use peeled kernels and pull the cake as soon as it tests done.

Cake is dense and oily

The paste was not stirred, so too much oil went in, or the butter and sugar were undercreamed. Mix the jar thoroughly and cream for the full time.

Storage

Keep the glazed cake covered at room temperature for up to 3 days. Wrapped well, the unglazed cake freezes for up to 2 months.

Safety notes

Do not taste raw batter, which contains raw flour and egg. Contains tree nuts (pistachio), wheat, egg and milk.