Pandesal (Filipino Bread Rolls)

Before you start

Pandesal is the breakfast roll of the Philippines, sold warm from neighborhood bakeries early in the morning. Despite the name, which translates to salt bread, it is gently sweet, with a soft, pillowy crumb from milk, egg and butter. The thin crust is rolled in fine breadcrumbs before baking, which gives it a faintly crunchy, sandy exterior and its familiar look.

The traditional shaping is quick: the dough is rolled into long logs, coated in crumbs and cut into small pieces that are stood on their cut sides. The rolls are proofed close together so they bake into a tray that pulls apart. Keep the baking moderate and short; pandesal should be pale golden, not deep brown, so the crumb stays soft. Eat them warm with butter, cheese, coconut jam or dipped in hot coffee.

Ingredients

• Dough500 g (4 cups) bread flour
• 60 g (5 tbsp) granulated sugar
• 7 g (2¼ tsp) instant yeast
• 8 g (1⅓ tsp) fine salt
• 250 ml (1 cup plus 1 tbsp) whole milk — warmed to about 38°C (100°F)
• 1 large (about 50 g) egg — room temperature
• 55 g (4 tbsp) unsalted butter — softened
• Coating60 g (⅔ cup) fine dry breadcrumbs — unseasoned

Method

1. Whisk the flour, sugar, yeast and salt in the mixer bowl. Add the warm milk and egg and mix on low until a shaggy dough forms.
2. Add the soft butter a little at a time and knead on medium-low for 8 to 10 minutes, until the dough is smooth, soft and elastic and clears the sides of the bowl.
3. Cover and let rise for 60 to 70 minutes, until doubled.
4. Divide the dough in half. On an unfloured counter, roll each half into a log about 50 cm (20 in) long and an even thickness of about 4 cm (1½ in).
5. Spread the breadcrumbs in a shallow dish. Brush or mist each log lightly with water and roll it in the crumbs until coated.
6. Cut each log into 12 pieces about 4 cm (1½ in) wide with a bench scraper. Place them cut side up on parchment-lined sheets, about 2 cm (¾ in) apart, and press lightly to flatten. Sprinkle a little more crumbs on top.
7. Cover and proof for 40 to 45 minutes, until puffed and touching. Heat the oven to 190°C (375°F).
8. Bake for 15 to 17 minutes, until light golden and the centers read about 88°C (190°F). Cool for 15 minutes and serve warm.

Tips for success

• Weigh the pieces for even baking. About 38 g each gives classic small rolls.
• If the dough sticks during the log stage, oil your hands lightly rather than adding flour.
• Reheat leftover pandesal in a toaster oven for 3 to 4 minutes to bring back the warm, fresh texture.

Substitutions

Whole milk

Evaporated milk diluted half and half with water is a common choice and gives a slightly richer flavor. Plant milks work but the crumb is less tender.

Butter

Margarine or shortening is common in Filipino bakeries. Shortening gives a slightly softer, longer-keeping crumb with less flavor.

Bread flour

All-purpose flour makes a softer, more cake-like roll. Use about 15 ml (1 tbsp) less milk.

Variations

Ube pandesal

Replace 60 ml of the milk with 120 g ube halaya and add 1 tsp ube flavoring. Press a cube of cheese into the center of each piece before proofing.

Whole wheat pandesal

Replace 150 g bread flour with whole wheat flour and add 15 ml (1 tbsp) more milk.

Troubleshooting

Rolls are dense

Too much flour or too short a rise. Keep the dough soft and let it fully double before shaping.

Crumbs fall off

The logs were too dry. Brush or mist them with water before rolling in crumbs.

Rolls are dark and dry

The oven was too hot or the bake ran long. Bake at 190°C and pull them at light golden.

Uneven sizes

The logs were not an even thickness. Roll them carefully and weigh a few pieces to check.

Storage

Keep cooled rolls in a sealed bag at room temperature for up to 3 days. Freeze for up to 3 months and reheat from frozen at 175°C (350°F) for 8 minutes.

Safety notes

Raw dough contains raw flour and egg; do not taste it. Contains wheat, milk and egg.