Palmiers (Elephant Ears)

Before you start

Palmiers are made by rolling puff pastry in sugar, folding it from both sides toward the center and slicing the log into thin pieces. In the oven the pastry layers puff and fan out into a heart or palm-leaf shape, while the sugar melts and caramelizes into a thin, crackling glaze. They are sometimes called elephant ears or palm leaves.

With only two main ingredients, the details matter. Roll the pastry on sugar rather than flour, so sugar presses into both sides. Chill the folded log firmly before slicing to keep the shapes neat, and flip the cookies halfway through baking, because the side touching the pan caramelizes first and the top needs a turn on the hot sheet to color evenly.

Ingredients

• 400 g puff pastry — all-butter store-bought, or homemade rough or classic puff, chilled
• 150 g (¾ cup) granulated sugar
• ¼ tsp fine salt
• ½ tsp ground cinnamon (optional)

Method

1. Mix the sugar, salt and cinnamon, if using. Sprinkle about a third of the mixture over the counter in a rectangle slightly larger than 30 x 35 cm (12 x 14 in).
2. Set the pastry on the sugar and sprinkle another third over the top. Roll it into a 30 x 35 cm rectangle, about 3 to 4 mm thick, pressing the sugar into both sides. Flip it once or twice as you roll and scatter sugar under it if it starts to stick.
3. With a long side facing you, fold both long edges in so they meet in the center. Sprinkle with some of the remaining sugar. Fold each side in again to meet in the center, then fold one half over the other like closing a book. You should have a log about 4 cm (1½ in) wide and 35 cm long.
4. Press the log gently to seal, wrap it and refrigerate for 30 minutes, until firm. Meanwhile heat the oven to 200°C (400°F) and line the baking sheets.
5. Slice the log into pieces 1.3 cm (½ in) thick with a sharp knife, using a quick sawing motion. Dip both cut sides in the leftover sugar and place them 5 cm (2 in) apart; they spread as they bake.
6. Bake one sheet at a time for 10 to 12 minutes, until the bottoms are caramelized and golden. Flip each cookie with the spatula and bake 4 to 6 minutes more, until both sides are amber.
7. Move them immediately to a rack. They crisp as they cool, about 10 minutes.

Tips for success

• Watch the last few minutes closely. Sugar goes from amber to burnt very quickly, and darker edges taste bitter.
• If the log softens while you slice, return it to the freezer for 10 minutes. Firm pastry gives sharp, open fans.
• Parchment or silicone mats keep the caramel from welding the cookies to the sheet.

Substitutions

Granulated sugar

Demerara or turbinado sugar gives a crunchier, more rustic finish and darker caramel; it does not press in as evenly.

Cinnamon

Use the finely grated zest of an orange rubbed into the sugar, or ½ tsp ground cardamom.

Puff pastry

All-butter store-bought puff gives the best flavor. Pastry made with shortening or oil spreads more and tastes flat.

Variations

Savory palmiers

Replace the sugar with 60 g finely grated Parmesan and spread the pastry thinly with 2 tbsp pesto or tapenade before folding.

Chocolate-dipped palmiers

Dip half of each cooled cookie in melted dark chocolate and let it set on parchment.

Troubleshooting

Palmiers unrolled into flat ovals

The log was not chilled enough or the folds were loose. Press the folded log firmly and chill until solid before slicing.

Sticky and soft after cooling

They were underbaked. Bake until both sides are amber, and store them airtight once completely cool.

Burnt bottoms, pale tops

The pan was too low or too dark. Bake on the middle rack, flip halfway through, and use a light-colored sheet.

Storage

Store cooled palmiers in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days. Humidity softens them; recrisp at 175°C (350°F) for 3 to 4 minutes. The unbaked log can be frozen for up to 1 month and sliced while slightly frozen.

Safety notes

Molten sugar is extremely hot; let the cookies cool before tasting. Contains wheat and milk if made with butter pastry.