Oatmeal Molasses Bread

Before you start

Oatmeal bread starts with a quick porridge: rolled oats steeped in boiling water with molasses and butter. The soaked oats hold a lot of water, which keeps the crumb moist and tender for days, and the molasses gives a light brown color and a gentle bittersweet note that suits both toast and sandwiches.

The main decision is patience at the start. The oat mixture must cool to lukewarm before the yeast goes in, or you will weaken it. After that, expect a dough that feels stickier than a plain white dough, because the oats release moisture slowly as it kneads. Resist adding much flour; a slightly tacky dough is what gives the loaf its soft, springy slice.

Ingredients

• Oat soak90 g (1 cup) old-fashioned rolled oats — plus 1 tbsp for the top
• 300 ml (1¼ cups) boiling water
• 60 g (3 tbsp) unsulfured molasses
• 30 g (2 tbsp) unsalted butter
• Dough420 g (3½ cups) bread flour — plus a little for the counter
• 7 g (2¼ tsp) instant yeast
• 9 g (1½ tsp) fine salt
• Topping1 tbsp milk or water — for brushing

Method

1. Put the oats, molasses and butter in a large bowl and pour the boiling water over them. Stir, then leave the mixture to soak and cool until it reads 40 to 43°C (105 to 110°F), about 30 minutes.
2. Add the flour, yeast and salt to the cooled oats. Mix until a shaggy dough forms and no dry flour is left.
3. Knead for 8 to 10 minutes by machine on medium-low, or 12 minutes by hand. The dough will be tacky and slightly sticky at first and become smoother as the oats absorb water. Add flour only a tablespoon at a time if it is truly sloppy.
4. Cover and let it rise in a warm spot until doubled, 60 to 90 minutes.
5. Grease the pan. Press the dough into a 23 cm (9 in) wide rectangle, roll it into a tight log, pinch the seam and set it seam side down in the pan.
6. Brush the top with milk and scatter 1 tablespoon of oats over it, pressing them on lightly. Cover and proof until it crowns about 2.5 cm (1 in) over the rim, 45 to 60 minutes. Heat the oven to 190°C (375°F) during the last 20 minutes.
7. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until the crust is deep brown and the center reaches 88 to 93°C (190 to 200°F). Molasses darkens the crust early, so tent with foil if it looks close to burning before the time is up.
8. Turn out onto a rack and let the loaf cool for at least 90 minutes before slicing; the oat crumb stays gummy while hot.

Tips for success

• Use old-fashioned oats rather than instant. Instant oats turn to paste and make a heavy, wet crumb.
• Coat your spoon with a little oil before measuring molasses so it slides off cleanly and the amount stays accurate.
• Brush the oats on top with milk or water first; without it they fall off when you slice.

Substitutions

Molasses

Honey or maple syrup at the same weight makes a paler, milder loaf. Blackstrap molasses is too bitter at this amount; use half and make up the rest with honey.

Bread flour

Replace 120 g with whole wheat flour for a nuttier loaf. Add 1 to 2 tbsp water and expect a slightly lower rise.

Butter

Neutral oil works at the same weight; the flavor is plainer but the crumb stays soft.

Variations

Oat and honey

Swap the molasses for honey and add 30 g (¼ cup) wheat germ with the flour.

Maple oat with flax

Use maple syrup in place of molasses and stir 2 tbsp ground flaxseed into the oat soak.

Troubleshooting

The dough never rose much

The oat soak was still too hot when the yeast went in. Always check that it has cooled to about 43°C (110°F) or below.

The crumb is dense and dry

Too much flour was added to fight the stickiness. Next time knead longer and let the oats hydrate; the dough firms up on its own.

Crust burned before the inside was done

Molasses browns quickly. Tent the loaf at 20 minutes and check that your oven is not running hot.

Storage

Store wrapped at room temperature for up to 4 days; the oats keep it moist. Freeze sliced for up to 3 months.

Safety notes

Do not eat the raw dough; uncooked flour can carry harmful bacteria. Contains wheat and milk. Oats are often processed alongside wheat.