French Silk Chocolate Pie (Cooked Eggs)

Before you start

French silk pie is an American invention despite the name: a filling of butter, sugar, chocolate and eggs beaten until it is airy and smooth, set in a crust and chilled. The traditional method beats raw eggs into the butter, which is why many cooks now either use pasteurized eggs or cook the eggs first. This recipe takes the second path. The eggs and sugar are whisked over simmering water until they reach 71°C (160°F), then whipped until thick and cool before the butter and chocolate go in.

Temperature is everything for the texture. The whipped eggs must be cooled to room temperature, the butter must be soft but not greasy, and the melted chocolate should be barely warm. If any element is too warm, the filling turns soupy; if too cold, it seizes into lumps. A chocolate cookie crust keeps preparation simple and frames the filling nicely.

Ingredients

• Cookie crust240 g (about 22 cookies) chocolate sandwich cookies — filling included
• 45 g (3 tbsp) unsalted butter — melted
• Filling170 g (6 oz) bittersweet chocolate (60–70% cacao) — chopped
• 3 large eggs
• 170 g (¾ cup plus 1 tbsp) granulated sugar
• ¼ tsp fine salt
• 225 g (1 cup) unsalted butter — soft, about 20°C (68°F)
• 2 tsp vanilla extract
• Topping300 ml (1¼ cups) cold heavy cream
• 20 g (2 tbsp) powdered sugar
• 20 g chocolate shavings — from a bar, using a vegetable peeler

Method

1. Heat the oven to 175°C (350°F). Process the cookies to fine crumbs, add the melted butter and pulse to combine. Press into the pie plate, building an even wall up the sides, and bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until set and fragrant. Cool completely.
2. Melt the chocolate in a heatproof bowl over barely simmering water, stirring, then set it aside to cool until it is just slightly warm, about 30°C (86°F).
3. In the mixer bowl set over the simmering water, whisk the eggs, sugar and salt constantly until the mixture reaches 71°C (160°F) on an instant-read thermometer, about 5 to 7 minutes. It will be foamy and slightly thickened.
4. Move the bowl to the mixer and whip on medium-high for 8 to 10 minutes, until the mixture is pale, has roughly tripled in volume and the bowl feels at room temperature.
5. Switch to the paddle. With the mixer on medium, add the soft butter a tablespoon at a time, letting each piece blend in. The mixture may look curdled midway; keep beating and it will come together.
6. Beat in the cooled chocolate and the vanilla, then beat on medium-high for 3 to 4 minutes, until the filling is fluffy, smooth and lighter in color.
7. Spread the filling into the crust and smooth the top. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours, until firm.
8. Before serving, whip the cream with the powdered sugar to soft peaks. Spread it over the pie and finish with chocolate shavings.

Tips for success

• Check the butter with a thermometer if unsure. At about 20°C it bends without cracking and leaves a clean dent.
• If the filling looks soupy after the chocolate goes in, chill the bowl for 10 minutes and beat again. If it looks lumpy and stiff, warm the outside of the bowl briefly with a warm towel.
• Let slices sit at room temperature for 10 minutes before serving; the filling turns silkier as it softens slightly.

Substitutions

Cooked eggs

Use 3 pasteurized shell eggs and skip the heating step, beating them into the butter one at a time for the traditional method.

Chocolate sandwich cookies

Use a fully blind-baked butter pastry shell for the classic diner-style pie.

Bittersweet chocolate

Semisweet chocolate makes a sweeter, milder filling; reduce the sugar by 25 g.

Variations

Mocha silk

Dissolve 2 tsp instant espresso powder in the vanilla before adding it.

Salted silk

Sprinkle flaky salt over the filling before the whipped cream goes on.

Troubleshooting

Filling is runny and greasy

The eggs, butter or chocolate were too warm. Chill the bowl for 10 to 15 minutes and beat again until fluffy.

Grainy texture

The sugar did not dissolve or the egg mixture overheated and curdled. Whisk constantly over gentle heat and stop at 71°C.

Crust is hard to cut

It was packed too thickly at the base or baked too long. Press it evenly about 5 mm thick and bake only until set.

Storage

Keep the pie refrigerated, covered, for up to 3 days; add the whipped cream on serving day. It contains eggs and dairy, so do not leave it out longer than 2 hours. Without topping, it freezes for up to 1 month; thaw in the refrigerator.

Safety notes

This version heats the eggs to 71°C (160°F); if you prefer the traditional raw-egg method, use pasteurized eggs. Contains egg, milk, wheat and soy (in most sandwich cookies).