Crumpets

Before you start

Crumpets are griddle cakes made from a thick yeasted batter, cooked on one side in metal rings until the top sets into a honeycomb of open holes. They are chewy and spongy rather than fluffy, and they are almost always toasted before serving so the holes can soak up butter.

The holes come from carbon dioxide made by the yeast plus a late addition of baking soda, rising through the batter as the bottom cooks. That only works if the batter is the right thickness and the heat is low. Too thick and the bubbles cannot escape; too hot and the bottom burns before the top sets. Make a test crumpet first and adjust.

Ingredients

• 250 g (2 cups, spooned and leveled) bread flour
• 5 g (1½ tsp) instant yeast
• 1 tsp granulated sugar
• 175 ml (¾ cup) whole milk — warmed to about 38°C (100°F)
• 175 ml (¾ cup) warm water — about 38°C (100°F)
• ¾ tsp fine salt
• ½ tsp baking soda
• 2 tbsp warm water — for dissolving the baking soda
• 1 tbsp neutral oil or melted butter — for the rings and griddle
• To serve butter, plus honey, jam or cheese

Method

1. Whisk the flour, yeast and sugar in a large bowl. Add the warm milk and water and whisk vigorously for 2 to 3 minutes, until the batter is smooth and elastic.
2. Cover and leave in a warm place for about 1 hour, until the batter has risen and is full of bubbles.
3. Dissolve the salt and baking soda in the 2 tbsp warm water and whisk it into the batter. Cover and rest for 15 minutes more. The batter should be thick but pourable, like heavy cream; whisk in water a tablespoon at a time if it is stiffer.
4. Heat the griddle over low to medium-low heat for 5 minutes. Brush the insides of the rings and the griddle generously with oil and set the rings on it.
5. Ladle about 75 ml (⅓ cup) batter into each ring, to a depth of about 1.2 cm (½ in).
6. Cook for 8 to 10 minutes, until the surface is covered in holes and has turned from glossy to dry and set. If the bottoms darken before the tops set, lower the heat.
7. Lift off the rings with tongs, flip the crumpets and cook for 1 minute to lightly color the tops. Cool on a rack. Wipe and re-oil the rings before each batch.
8. To serve, toast the crumpets until crisp on the outside and spread with plenty of butter.

Tips for success

• Cook one test crumpet first. If no holes form, thin the batter slightly; if it runs under the rings, thicken it with a spoonful of flour.
• Very low heat is the secret. The first batch is usually the hardest while the griddle settles.
• Without rings, use clean, oiled tuna cans with both ends removed, or cook freeform pikelets.

Substitutions

Bread flour

All-purpose flour works but gives a slightly less chewy crumpet; you may need a little less liquid.

Whole milk

Use all water for a lighter, slightly crisper crumpet, or any unsweetened plant milk.

Instant yeast

Active dry yeast at the same weight works; let it stand in the warm liquid with the sugar for 5 minutes first.

Variations

Pikelets

Thin the batter with a few tablespoons of water and drop 2 tbsp at a time onto the griddle without rings; flip when bubbles cover the top.

Cheese-topped crumpets

Toast, then top with grated cheddar and a dash of Worcestershire sauce and broil until bubbling.

Troubleshooting

No holes on top

The batter was too thick, the yeast was weak, or the heat was too high. Thin the batter, check the yeast and lower the heat.

Burned bottoms with raw tops

The griddle was too hot. Turn it down to low and allow 8 to 10 minutes per batch.

Crumpets stuck in the rings

The rings were not oiled enough. Oil them well before every batch and run a thin knife around the inside if needed.

Storage

Cooled crumpets keep in an airtight bag at room temperature for 2 days or in the freezer for up to 3 months. Toast them straight from frozen.

Safety notes

Do not taste the raw batter, which contains uncooked flour. Contains wheat and milk.