Tender Corn Muffins

Before you start

Corn muffins sit between cake and cornbread. They are a little sweeter and softer than a savory skillet cornbread and baked in individual cups, which gives each one browned edges and a domed top. The batter is about half cornmeal and half wheat flour; the flour provides enough structure for a muffin that holds together when split and buttered.

The trick for a tender crumb is letting the cornmeal soak in the buttermilk for 10 minutes before mixing. The meal softens and absorbs liquid, so the muffins are moist rather than sandy. Fine or medium stone-ground cornmeal both work; coarse polenta-style meal stays gritty even after soaking. Bake at a high temperature and take them out as soon as they spring back; corn muffins dry out quickly when overbaked.

Ingredients

• 150 g (1 cup) fine or medium yellow cornmeal
• 300 ml (1¼ cups) buttermilk
• 155 g (1¼ cups, spooned and leveled) all-purpose flour
• 65 g (⅓ cup) granulated sugar — use 100 g (½ cup) for a sweeter, more cake-like muffin
• 1 tbsp (12 g) baking powder
• ½ tsp baking soda
• ¾ tsp fine salt
• 2 large eggs
• 85 g (6 tbsp) unsalted butter — melted, plus more for the pan
• 1 tbsp honey — optional

Method

1. Stir the cornmeal into the buttermilk in a large bowl and let it stand for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 200°C (400°F) and brush the muffin cups generously with melted butter; bare greased cups give crisper edges than paper liners.
2. Whisk the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a separate bowl.
3. Whisk the eggs, melted butter and honey into the soaked cornmeal until smooth.
4. Add the dry ingredients and fold just until no flour remains. The batter will be fairly loose and pourable.
5. Divide among the cups, filling them about three-quarters full. Bake for 15 to 18 minutes, until the tops are golden, the edges have pulled slightly from the pan and a toothpick in the center comes out clean.
6. Cool in the pan for 5 minutes, run a thin knife around the edges and lift the muffins out. Serve warm with butter and honey, or alongside chili and soup.

Tips for success

• For extra-crisp edges, put the buttered pan in the oven for 3 minutes before you fill it. Fill carefully; the pan will be hot.
• Corn muffins are best warm. Reheat leftovers split and toasted in a skillet with a little butter.
• Check the toothpick at 14 minutes. These go from moist to dry fast.

Substitutions

Buttermilk

Use 300 ml milk with 1 tbsp lemon juice, or half plain yogurt and half milk. The muffins will be slightly less tangy and tender.

Butter

Bacon fat or neutral oil at the same volume. Bacon fat gives a savory, smoky flavor; oil gives a softer muffin with less flavor.

Yellow cornmeal

White cornmeal works the same way and gives a paler, slightly milder muffin.

Variations

Corn kernel muffins

Fold in 120 g thawed frozen or fresh corn kernels, patted dry, for little bursts of sweetness.

Honey butter tops

Brush the hot muffins with 2 tbsp melted butter whisked with 1 tbsp honey.

Troubleshooting

Gritty texture

The cornmeal was too coarse or was not soaked. Use fine or medium grind and give it the full 10 minutes in the buttermilk.

Dry and crumbly

Overbaked, or the flour was packed into the cup. Weigh the flour and pull the muffins as soon as the toothpick is clean.

Stuck to the pan

The cups were not greased well enough. Brush butter into every corner, or use paper liners if you prefer easy release over crisp edges.

Storage

Store at room temperature in an airtight container for up to 2 days. Freeze for up to 3 months; reheat at 175°C (350°F) for 8 to 10 minutes.

Safety notes

Do not taste the raw batter, which contains raw egg and raw flour. Contains wheat, egg and milk.