Chocolate Ganache (Pourable, Whipped and Truffle)

Before you start

Ganache is chocolate and hot cream stirred into a smooth emulsion. What it becomes depends almost entirely on the ratio by weight. Equal parts dark chocolate and cream make a pourable glaze that sets soft; twice as much cream as chocolate gives a loose ganache that whips into a light, mousse-like frosting once chilled; twice as much chocolate as cream sets firm enough to roll into truffles or slice in a tart.

The percentage on the chocolate matters too. These ratios are for dark chocolate of roughly 55 to 70 percent cacao. Milk and white chocolate contain less cocoa solids, so they need more chocolate for the same firmness. Chop the chocolate finely and evenly so the cream melts it before the cream cools, then stir from the center outward in small circles until it turns glossy. The main recipe below is the 1:1 glaze, with the other ratios in the variations.

Ingredients

• 225 g (8 oz) dark chocolate, 55–70% cacao — finely chopped, or callets
• 225 g (scant 1 cup) heavy cream — at least 36% fat
• Pinch fine salt
• 15 g (1 tbsp) unsalted butter — optional, softened, for extra gloss

Method

1. Chop the chocolate into small, even pieces, about the size of a pea, and put it in the heatproof bowl with the salt.
2. Heat the cream in the saucepan over medium heat until small bubbles appear around the edge and it is steaming. Do not let it boil hard.
3. Pour the hot cream over the chocolate, shake the bowl so all the pieces are submerged and leave it untouched for 3 to 4 minutes.
4. Stir slowly from the center in small circles with the spatula, gradually widening, until the mixture is smooth, thick and glossy. Stir in the butter if using. An immersion blender held below the surface makes the smoothest emulsion.
5. If a few pieces stay unmelted, set the bowl over barely simmering water for 10 to 20 seconds at a time, stirring, until smooth. Do not overheat.
6. For a drip or glaze, let the ganache cool, stirring now and then, until it reaches 32 to 35°C (90 to 95°F) and flows like thick syrup. Pour it over a chilled, frosted or crumb-coated cake and let it set for 20 minutes.
7. For filling a tart, pour the ganache into a fully baked, cooled shell while it is still fluid, then let it set at room temperature for 2 hours or in the refrigerator for 1 hour.

Tips for success

• Test drip consistency on the side of a cold glass first. If the drips run to the bottom, let the ganache cool a few more minutes.
• Swap a tablespoon of the cream for corn syrup or glucose for a softer, shinier glaze that stays smooth when refrigerated.
• Weigh both ingredients. Cup measures of cream are close enough, but chopped chocolate is impossible to measure accurately by volume.

Substitutions

Dark chocolate

For milk chocolate, use about 2 parts chocolate to 1 part cream for a glaze that sets like the dark 1:1. White chocolate needs around 3:1 for firm uses and is softer at any ratio.

Heavy cream

Full-fat coconut milk makes a dairy-free ganache. It sets slightly softer and tastes of coconut, so use a little more chocolate.

Plain cream

Infuse the hot cream with orange zest, mint leaves or coffee beans for 15 minutes, strain, reheat and weigh again before pouring over the chocolate.

Variations

Whipped ganache (1:2)

Use 150 g chocolate and 300 g cream. Chill the ganache at least 4 hours or overnight, then whip on medium speed for 1 to 3 minutes, just until it lightens and holds soft peaks. Stop early; overwhipping makes it grainy.

Truffle ganache (2:1)

Use 300 g chocolate and 150 g cream. Let it set at room temperature for 3 to 4 hours or until scoopable, roll into 15 g balls and coat in cocoa powder.

Spiced ganache

Add a pinch of cinnamon and a pinch of chile powder to the chocolate before pouring in the cream.

Troubleshooting

Ganache split, oily or grainy

It got too hot or the ratio had too little liquid. Whisk in 1 to 2 tbsp warm milk, or use an immersion blender, until it turns smooth and glossy again.

Unmelted lumps of chocolate

The pieces were too large or the cream was not hot enough. Warm the bowl gently over simmering water in short bursts while stirring.

Glaze too thick to pour

It cooled past pouring temperature. Warm it over simmering water for a few seconds until it is back to 32 to 35°C (90 to 95°F).

Storage

Keep 1:1 ganache covered at cool room temperature for up to 2 days, or refrigerate for up to 1 week and rewarm gently over simmering water. Freeze for up to 3 months. Truffles keep refrigerated for 2 weeks in an airtight container.