Steamed Boston Brown Bread

Before you start

Boston brown bread is a New England quick bread that is steamed rather than baked. Equal parts rye flour, cornmeal and whole wheat flour are mixed with buttermilk, molasses and baking soda, poured into tall cylindrical molds, covered and set in simmering water for about two hours. The result is a dense, moist, almost pudding-like loaf with no hard crust, dark brown and sweet with molasses. It is often served sliced in rounds with butter or cream cheese, or alongside baked beans.

The traditional molds are clean metal food cans, which give the familiar round slices. A 1-liter (1-quart) lidded pudding mold or two small heatproof metal tins work just as well; use those if you would rather not heat the lining inside a food can. Whatever you use, grease it well, fill it only about two-thirds full and seal the top tightly with foil so condensation cannot drip into the bread.

Ingredients

• 60 g (½ cup) rye flour
• 70 g (½ cup) fine or medium cornmeal
• 60 g (½ cup) whole wheat flour
• 1 tsp baking soda
• ½ tsp fine salt
• 240 ml (1 cup) buttermilk — room temperature
• 110 g (⅓ cup) unsulfured molasses — not blackstrap
• 75 g (½ cup) raisins — optional
• 1 tbsp softened butter — for greasing the molds

Method

1. Grease the insides of the cans or mold thoroughly with butter. Cut two squares of foil large enough to cover each top with a 5 cm (2 in) overhang, and butter the side that will face the batter.
2. Set a small rack or folded towel in the bottom of the stockpot so the molds do not touch the base directly. Bring a full kettle of water to a boil.
3. Whisk the rye flour, cornmeal, whole wheat flour, baking soda and salt in a bowl. Add the buttermilk and molasses and stir until smooth, then fold in the raisins if using. The batter will be thick and pourable.
4. Divide the batter between the molds; each should be about two-thirds full. Cover tightly with the buttered foil, pressing it around the rims, and tie it in place with twine. Pleat the foil slightly to allow the bread to rise.
5. Stand the molds on the rack in the pot. Pour in boiling water to come halfway up their sides. Cover the pot and keep the water at a steady, gentle simmer over low heat.
6. Steam for 1 hour 45 minutes to 2 hours, topping up with boiling water as needed to keep the level halfway up the molds. The bread is done when it has risen and a skewer pushed through the foil into the center comes out clean; the center should read about 93°C (200°F).
7. Lift the molds out with tongs and a thick cloth, remove the foil and rest for 15 minutes. Run a thin knife around the inside, then turn out the loaves; if a can sticks, open the bottom with a can opener and push the bread through. Cool on a rack before slicing into rounds with a serrated knife or taut string.

Tips for success

• Use molasses labeled unsulfured or mild. Blackstrap is much more bitter and makes the bread harsh.
• Check the water level every 30 minutes. If the pot boils dry the bread scorches, and if the water boils hard it can lift the molds and seep under the foil.
• Warm molasses flows more easily; grease your measuring cup first and it will slide right out.

Substitutions

Rye flour

Use more whole wheat flour in its place. The bread loses some earthy depth and becomes slightly lighter in color.

Buttermilk

Stir 1 tablespoon lemon juice or vinegar into 240 ml milk and wait 5 minutes. The acid is still needed to react with the baking soda.

Stovetop steaming

Steam in the oven instead: set the covered molds in a deep roasting pan, add boiling water halfway up and bake at 160°C (325°F) for about 2 hours, checking the water level once or twice.

Variations

Currant and walnut brown bread

Use 75 g dried currants in place of the raisins and fold in 40 g chopped toasted walnuts.

Toasted brown bread rounds

Slice day-old bread 1.5 cm thick and toast in a buttered skillet until crisp at the edges. Serve with cream cheese.

Troubleshooting

Wet, sticky top layer

Condensation got under the foil. Seal the foil tightly with twine, butter its underside, and keep the simmer gentle so water does not splash.

Bread will not come out of the can

The mold was under-greased or the loaf was turned out too hot. Grease every surface, rest for 15 minutes, and open the base of the can to push it out if needed.

Bitter, harsh flavor

Blackstrap molasses or too much baking soda. Choose a milder molasses and measure the soda with a level spoon.

Storage

Wrap cooled loaves in plastic and keep them at room temperature for up to 3 days or refrigerated for up to a week. Freeze whole or sliced for up to 3 months. Re-steam slices for 5 minutes or toast them to refresh.

Safety notes

Lift molds out of simmering water with tongs and a cloth, since steam and metal can burn. Do not taste the raw batter, which contains raw flour. Contains wheat, rye and milk.