Basque Burnt Cheesecake

Before you start

Basque burnt cheesecake turns the usual cheesecake rules around. There is no crust, no water bath and no gentle oven. The batter bakes at high heat in a pan lined with crumpled parchment, so the outside caramelizes to a deep bittersweet brown while the center stays soft and almost custardy.

The key decision is when to take it out. When it is ready, the top is very dark and the cake has puffed high above the pan, but the middle still wobbles like barely set custard when you nudge the pan. It sinks and firms as it cools. Pulling it too late gives a dense, uniform texture; pulling it too early leaves a liquid center that will not set even after chilling.

Ingredients

• 900 g (four 8-oz blocks) full-fat cream cheese — room temperature
• 300 g (1½ cups) granulated sugar
• ½ tsp fine salt
• 5 large eggs — room temperature
• 480 ml (2 cups) heavy cream — room temperature
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• 30 g (¼ cup) all-purpose flour

Method

1. Heat the oven to 220°C (425°F) with a rack in the center. Crumple two overlapping sheets of parchment, open them out and press them into the pan so they cover the bottom and stand at least 5 cm (2 in) above the rim. The paper's folds and overhang give the cake its ragged sides.
2. Beat the cream cheese, sugar and salt on medium-low speed for 2 to 3 minutes, until completely smooth with no lumps. Scrape the bowl and paddle well.
3. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing on low just until each one disappears. Mix in the cream and vanilla.
4. Sift the flour over the batter and mix on low just until combined. Pour the batter through a sieve into the lined pan if you see any lumps.
5. Set the pan on the baking sheet and bake for 55 to 65 minutes. The top should be deep brown to nearly black in spots and puffed well above the rim, while the center still wobbles loosely when you shake the pan gently.
6. Cool the cake in the pan on a rack. It will fall and crack as it cools, which is expected. After about 2 hours, remove the ring, peel back the parchment and slice with a hot, wiped knife.

Tips for success

• Mix on low speed throughout. Beating air into the batter makes the cake rise more and fall harder.
• Ovens vary widely at this heat. If the top is very dark at 45 minutes but the center is still liquid, lower the oven to 200°C (400°F) and finish baking.
• Let the cream cheese soften fully; cold blocks leave small lumps you will see in every slice.

Substitutions

Heavy cream

Use 240 ml cream and 240 g sour cream for a tangier, slightly firmer cake. Milk makes it thin and watery, so avoid it.

All-purpose flour

Use 20 g cornstarch for a gluten-free cake. The texture is nearly identical.

Granulated sugar

Up to half can be light brown sugar, which deepens the caramel flavor and gives a slightly tan interior.

Variations

Chocolate Basque cheesecake

Melt 150 g dark chocolate and whisk it into the batter after the cream. Bake 5 minutes less.

Miso caramel top

Whisk 1 tbsp white miso into the cream before adding it for a salty, savory edge to the caramelized crust.

Troubleshooting

Top is pale and not burnished

The oven ran cool or the rack sat too low. Check the temperature with an oven thermometer and bake on the center or upper-middle rack.

Center never set, even after chilling

It came out too early. Next time bake until only the center 7 to 10 cm (3 to 4 in) wobbles, with the outer ring firm.

Texture is dry and dense throughout

It was overbaked. Remove it while the middle is still loose; carryover heat finishes the set.

Storage

Cover and refrigerate the cheesecake within 2 hours of cooling. It keeps for up to 4 days. Bring slices to room temperature for 30 minutes before serving if you want the creamy center back. Freezing makes the center grainy.

Safety notes

The center of this cheesecake stays soft. If you are serving young children, pregnant people, older adults or anyone who should avoid undercooked eggs, use pasteurized eggs, or bake until the center reaches 71°C (160°F); the cake will be firmer. Contains milk, egg and wheat.